Aquaponics Digest - Tue 01/26/99




Message   1: Re: converting anaerobic into aerobic condition

             from jilli and lars 

Message   2: Re: Breeding tilapia

             from "charliec" 

Message   3: Re: converting anaerobic into aerobic condition

             from doelle 

Message   4: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

             from "Donna Fezler" 

Message   5: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

             from "Donna Fezler" 

Message   6: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

             from "Donna Fezler" 

Message   7: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

             from William Evans 

Message   8: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

             from "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Message   9: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

             from "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Message  10: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

             from Adriana Gutierrez 

Message  11: flowforms pools (xperimental)

             from William Evans 

Message  12: Breeding Tilapia in small tanks

             from "Paul T. Juckniess" 

Message  13: Re: Breeding Tilapia in small tanks

             from Adriana Gutierrez 

Message  14: Re: Breeding tilapia

             from Chris Hedemark 

Message  15: 

             from Anna Jóna 

Message  16: Unsubscribe

             from Anna Jóna 

Message  17: Unsubscribe

             from AmazonFish

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| Message 1                                                           |

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Subject: Re: converting anaerobic into aerobic condition

From:    jilli and lars 

Date:    Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:42:42 -0800

doelle wrote:

> Very simple. Guide them through an anaerobic digester [polyethylene

tubing], or aerate your container. In the first case you get rid of most of

your 'baddies' and in the latter case [more expensive] you do the same.

horst and others-

   I've briefly read the articles on the implementation if these

polyethylene tube digesters in vietnam and phillipines - very encouraging -

an extremely powerful technology that is (apparently) simple. But the articles

are lacking in terms of specific digester design parameters. What are these

polyethylene tubes like? diameter? thickness of plastic? are they made from

a narrow sheet formed into a tube? what sort of adhesive is used?

How is the gas collected? temperature regulation? how is it stored?

    I'm familiar with much of the biogas basics - what i'm interested in is

simplicity and materials availability.         I've been itching to build a

small scale digester to get a feel for working with them. I prefer

to work with found materials - there is so much stuff on the streets of san

francisco. I see abandoned plastic 5 and even 55 gallon drums all the time .

Can i use these for a digester? What about a thermophilic

digester? How do these plastics act at 140 -150 deg F? Does anyone know? Has

anyone used those cylindrical white 5 gallon plastic food/paint containers

under similar conditions? Are there any special considerations for

adhesives and/or fittings at such termperatures?

lars fields

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| Message 2                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Breeding tilapia

From:    "charliec" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 04:19:43 -0500

Help! |I am considering adding fish to balance my hydropnic operation and am

seeking  a book or other source of basic info such as water temps for

various species, # of fish/ gal or feet3, water chemistry etc. etc.   Thanks

-----Original Message-----

From: Chris Hedemark 

To: aquaponics@townsqr.com 

Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 6:49 PM

Subject: Breeding tilapia

>Lloyd R. Prentice wrote:

>

>> Well, in effort to move us back on track, let me pose two questions that

>> I've asked before, but with insufficient response to move ahead:

>>

>> 1) I'd like to try my hand at breeding tilapia in a very small way. Can

>> I do this in a twenty-gallon aquarium set-up? How?

>

>I don't think this is sufficient.  It will be a LOT of work to keep the

>fish alive in 20 gallons at adult breeding size.  I suggest getting

>something more like a 40 gallon or larger container.  Low is preferable

>to tall (more surface area the better).  For low budget, look towards

>Rubbermaid at the nearest Walmart for a suitable container.

>

>> 2) Where can I get the breeders? To start with, at least, I don't need

>> blue-ribbon stock.

>

>Sometimes pet shops have them.  You will pay through the nose this way.

>I suggest getting with one of the tilapia farmers on this list (there

>are several) and try to get them to ship you some fingerlings.

>

>I have personally been trying my hand at raising Pacu as food fish.

>Word of warning - they are extremely flighty even into their adulthood.

>The tank must be well covered.

>

>Lloyd you are going into an area where you will likely get more good

>info from hobbyists than from farmers.  Breeding tilapia is a whole

>different world from raising them for food.  Check out the usenet

>newsgroup rec.aquaria.  Tilapia are actually very easy to breed (most

>tilapia farmers go to great pains to KEEP them from breeding!) so most

>of your education will need to be on how to keep the adults healthy

>until they breed and how to care for their offspring.  There is a wealth

>of information on this subject in the aquarium hobbyist community.

>

>I wrote an article a few years ago on filtration in the cichlid

>aquarium.  I no longer have my copy but I know there are *ahem* illegal

>copies out there republished without my permission.  Heh.  The one site

>that republished the article *with* my permission is

>

>http://trans4.neep.wisc.edu/~gracy/fish/pages/general/filter.article.html

>

>It is geared more towards the hobbyist but this is the scale you need to

>think on if you are pairing off tilapia.  Think of it as a high level

>overview.  At the time I wrote that article there weren't many people

>using fluidized bed filtration.  I've seen it in use since then in small

>to large scale configurations and it seems to work very nicely so it

>should be considered as well.

>

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| Message 3                                                           |

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Subject: Re: converting anaerobic into aerobic condition

From:    doelle 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:14:31 +1100

Jilli and Lars,

>   I've briefly read the articles on the implementation if these

polyethylene tube digesters in vietnam and phillipines - very encouraging -

an extremely powerful technology that is (apparently) simple. But the articles

>are lacking in terms of specific digester design parameters. What are these

polyethylene tubes like? diameter? thickness of plastic? are they made from

a narrow sheet formed into a tube? what sort of adhesive is used?

Why don't you contact the people in Vietnam via email or write to the

Filipinos in teh Research Institute. You will get the answers. I am also

sure that Prof.F.Dolberg will give you the answer you require. His email

address is: < 

Prof. Dolberg is at the University of Aarhus. Your best team, however, is

the one in Vietnam. You can get the address for T.R.Preston from the webpage

http://www.cipav.org.co/lrrd/lrrdhome.html

Since they are building them, they should be able to give you the answers

you require. I have only seen them.

>How is the gas collected? temperature regulation? how is it stored?

That is very easy to answer. You have to have a connection through the

polyethylene digester top and a tubing goes into a second polyethylene tube

or container for gas collection.

>    I'm familiar with much of the biogas basics - what i'm interested in is

simplicity and materials availability.         I've been itching to build a

small scale digester to get a feel for working with them. I prefer

>to work with found materials - there is so much stuff on the streets of san

francisco. I see abandoned plastic 5 and even 55 gallon drums all the time .

Can i use these for a digester? What about a thermophilic

>digester? How do these plastics act at 140 -150 deg F? Does anyone know?

Has anyone used those cylindrical white 5 gallon plastic food/paint

containers under similar conditions? Are there any special considerations for

>adhesives and/or fittings at such termperatures?

>

If you do that, please watch that a good biogas producing digester works

only if the C/N ratio is right. If your carbon content is too high, you have

problems with acidity and would have to throw lime into it to neutralise it.

I have seen such systems in Thailand using the USAB type digester. The cost

of neutralising was huge.

Keep your itching going and get the detailed information from the above people.

Best of luck

Horst Doelle

Horst W.Doelle, D.Sc., D.Sc. [h.c.]

Chairman, IOBB

Director, MIRCEN-Biotechnology

FAX: +617-38783230

Email: doelle@ozemail.com.au

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| Message 4                                                           |

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Subject: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

From:    "Donna Fezler" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:45:19 -0600

        Interesting comments I received.  I think a small living machine marsh

environment between the pool and the fish, and the beds and the pool is in

order.

Algae control can be achieved by heating the water in black tanks instead of

the pool proper.  The use of deciduous plants around the pool and/or a pool

cover in a crisis should work.  When I lived in Louisiana I would use a few

dozen water hyacinths (they did not even cover 1/10 of the surface) over the

winter and I did not have algae growth, even without the use of chlorine.

They may have and inhibitory effect.

This is red and underlined on my computer and I can't effect any changes.

If it comes across this way, my apologies.

-----Original Message-----

Charcoal filtration is often used in fish-rearing systems, and probably will

have no negative affect on the fish or plants.  Wonder if UV exposure would

have any affect on your bacterial levels...at least those that keep your

aquaponics system in balance?

>I swim in lakes, why can't I swim in this water?

Should be safe for swimming, but I guess the decision to use it that way

might have some bearing on the ultimate plans for your fish and plants.  I

can foresee some possible complications if you intend to raise edible plants

and market these products.

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| Message 5                                                           |

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Subject: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

From:    "Donna Fezler" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:50:11 -0600

Yes, your perfectly correct. But there is still bacteria in the water, and

that is what kind of worries me about swimming in the used nutrient soup.

Michael, not all bacteria is bad.  The majority of bacteria are harmless.

The significant water pathogens can be monitored fairly cheaply.

Yes.. I understand. However; while most bacterias in an aquaponics system

have bengin effects on humans, some do, for example e.coli or something

similar if you were to add manures to your beds for some reason.

I do add manure to the beds-fish manure.  I will not add any other manure to

this system.  As far as Chlorine goes, it is not the carcinogenic problems

that concern me, it is the immune system problems  and the way it would

unbalance the system.  It is totally out of the question and was one of the

original criteria.  There is no reason to "sterilize" the water.

Donna Fezler

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| Message 6                                                           |

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Subject: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

From:    "Donna Fezler" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:55:33 -0600

Thanks, I will keep this in mind.  It is incredible what other people think

of.

Donna

-----Original Message-----

From:   aquaponics [SMTP:aquaponics]

On Behalf Of Wendy Nagurny

Sent:   Monday, January 25, 1999 6:06 PM

To:     Aquaponics

Subject:        Re: aquaponic swimming pool

I can see no reason why you can't swim in you aquaponics water as long as

you were careful to avoid lotions, creams, deodorants, detergents, etc on

yourself.  You don't want these things in your aquaponics system.  I don't

think I would try to market anything grown in something my family swam in

either, but if the produce is just for your own consumption, why not?  When

I read the original post, I thought it would be great to swim and play with

my fishies.  I don't think your fish water would hurt you.  You are already

eating the plants grown in it and the fish that swim there.  Like I said, my

concern would be more for you hurting them with the anointments  of modern

society then they hurting you.

Wendy

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| Message 7                                                           |

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Subject: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

From:    William Evans 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:12:49 -0800

As far as the inlet to the pool, couldn't this be done w/ perforated

drain tile (3-4" dia) buried w/ coarse rock......ie the bottom of the

pool is built using finer grades of rock and sand separated by

geotextile fabric to stop migration of sand rock into different

layers..The flow of water would be upward.This I HAVE NOT DONE.

But that is how they cleanse water at some watertreatment plants is it

not?  AS long as no chlorine was used the rock and sand would support

the good  nitrifying bacteria population for cleansing puprpose, right?

 In Bill Mollisons book"Permaculture, A Designer's Manual" he lays this

all out only in reverse...

......effluent from the pool(sorry he doesnt have hooked into a

fishtank)  he sucks downward thru similar graduated gravel/sand

bed/perforated pipe.. dumps/pumps this water uphill, where it gravity

flows thru some reed beds that are layed out in a convoluted fashion to

maximize the lenth of travel thru this growing bed(slow flow thru this

stage is essential to allow for absorbtion/conversion of the nasties to

goodies;i guess this works in concert w/ nitrifying bacteria, I guess

similar cleansing process you all depend on in your setups-only your

growing plants in gravel/medium dependent on nitrifying bac))...After

going thru the "reed beds" the water flows downhill over a series of

"flow forms" as he calls them, basically a  series of sssmall waterfalls

to oxygenate the water afore it splashes into the pool,This completes

the path....No chlorine, no fish either, tho if the system wass

perfected I dont see why not as long as all variables in line w/ the

load/demands on the system.He does advise that tests for presence of E.

coli essential.

billevans

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

                    same as below---fabric and finer grade of sand

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

                    same as below --fabric and finer grade of rock or

coarse sand

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

                   overlay this w/ a "geotextile"/ filterfabric barrier

and a smaller grade of rock

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

                    coarse rock

-===== ======== ========== ========== =========== ========== ======

====== ======= ======= ===== ====== ===

               perforated      drain pipe(inlet to pool)

============================================================================

===================================

Donna Fezler wrote:

> 

>         Interesting comments I received.  I think a small living machine marsh

> environment between the pool and the fish, and the beds and the pool is in

> order.

> 

> Algae control can be achieved by heating the water in black tanks instead of

> the pool proper.  The use of deciduous plants around the pool and/or a pool

> cover in a crisis should work.  When I lived in Louisiana I would use a few

> dozen water hyacinths (they did not even cover 1/10 of the surface) over the

> winter and I did not have algae growth, even without the use of chlorine.

> They may have and inhibitory effect.

> 

> This is red and underlined on my computer and I can't effect any changes.

> If it comes across this way, my apologies.

> 

> -----Original Message-----

> 

> Charcoal filtration is often used in fish-rearing systems, and probably will

> have no negative affect on the fish or plants.  Wonder if UV exposure would

> have any affect on your bacterial levels...at least those that keep your

> aquaponics system in balance?

> 

> >I swim in lakes, why can't I swim in this water?

> 

> Should be safe for swimming, but I guess the decision to use it that way

> might have some bearing on the ultimate plans for your fish and plants.  I

> can foresee some possible complications if you intend to raise edible plants

> and market these products.

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| Message 8                                                           |

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Subject: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

From:    "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:31:40 -0700 (MST)

Bill: Thanks for the useful note as attached. The key words are:convoluted

path, slow flow, plants, and waterfalls. We have such a system but want to

improve it by graduating to higher volumes and faster treatment by using

more efficient (edible) plants and creating a more circuitous path and

having more splashing along the way. Is anyone else working on this? Where

can I find out more information based on experience? Jorg ostrowski

__________________________________________________________________________

You said:effluent from the pool(sorry he doesnt have hooked into a

fishtank)  he sucks downward thru similar graduated gravel/sand

bed/perforated pipe.. dumps/pumps this water uphill, where it gravity

flows thru some reed beds that are layed out in a convoluted fashion to

maximize the lenth of travel thru this growing bed(slow flow thru this

stage is essential to allow for absorbtion/conversion of the nasties to

goodies;i guess this works in concert w/ nitrifying bacteria, I guess

similar cleansing process you all depend on in your setups-only your

growing plants in gravel/medium dependent on nitrifying bac))...After

going thru the "reed beds" the water flows downhill over a series of

"flow forms" as he calls them, basically a  series of sssmall waterfalls

to oxygenate the water

___________________________________________________________________________

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| Message 9                                                           |

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Subject: RE: aquaponic swimming pool

From:    "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:38:25 -0700 (MST)

Donna: Are you saying that the water hyacinth prevented algae growth? I

hope not since mine are helping to clean my greywater, I need my algae to

feed my fish. I wonder if it may have been the low winter light levels? 

Jorg Ostrowski

 ________________________________________________

You said: " When I lived in Louisiana I would use a few

dozen water hyacinths (they did not even cover 1/10 of the surface) over

the winter and I did not have algae growth,.."

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| Message 10                                                          |

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Subject: Re: aquaponic swimming pool(xperimental)

From:    Adriana Gutierrez 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:46:21 -0500

Jorg D. Ostrowski wrote:

> 

> Bill: Thanks for the useful note as attached. The key words are:convoluted

> path, slow flow, plants, and waterfalls. We have such a system but want to

> improve it by graduating to higher volumes and faster treatment by using

> more efficient (edible) plants and creating a more circuitous path and

> having more splashing along the way. 

Jorg,

The June/July issue of Aquaponics Journal had an article entitled

"Ornamental Pond Aquaponic System".  This may help you.  The

author, Scott Jones used to participate on this list and is a

supplier of some the needed parts.  You can get back issues of

the Journal at:  www.aquaponics.com

Adriana

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| Message 11                                                          |

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Subject: flowforms pools (xperimental)

From:    William Evans 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 08:16:21 -0800

Mollison's "flow forms"(((FF)))intrigue me..He stacks several of these

w/ a drop of a foot or so between each.  "flowform"..... looks like a

circle basically (top view) that tried to  split into siamese twins, but

didn't quite make it.

The  FF's definately are puckered in on one side where agua pours off

into the next  FF. The resultant xcrossection...from the rim to the

center axis... ( "siamese line"(diameter)) ,the bottom drops only to

rise again at this line.  The result is a water flow that

alternates/oscillates back and forth in the basins, 2 basins per FF

separated by this "siamese line".  This natural turbulent flow, combined

w/ the water drop between FF's greatly enhances the aeration and

resultant cleansing of the water.

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| Message 12                                                          |

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Subject: Breeding Tilapia in small tanks

From:    "Paul T. Juckniess" 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:12:34 -0600 (CST)

Breeding tilapia in small tanks will depend on the size of the

fish.  I had a trio (1 male ,2 females) that were very  prolific

in a 29 gallon tank.  The fish were small 6 to 7 inches in overall

length.  Temperature seems to be an important about 80 F worked well

for me.  I used a flower pot in the bottom of a bare tank.   I feed  them

catfish chow.  The only thing that you need to look out for is

the males can be very agressive and hard on a female who is holding

eggs.  At these times I would remove the male from the tank.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Paul T. Juckniess III               | Thunder is impressive. But it is

pjucknie@mail.coin.missouri.edu     | lightning that does the work.

Voice: (573) 886-1214               |                 Mark Twain

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

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| Message 13                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Breeding Tilapia in small tanks

From:    Adriana Gutierrez 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:04:41 -0500

The only thing that you need to look out for is

> the males can be very agressive and hard on a female who is holding

> eggs.  At these times I would remove the male from the tank.  

Some breeders cut the upper lip off of the males for this

reason.  I don't know if I could do this but it apparently comes

with the territory.  Sort of like castrating bulls, I guess.  You

guys need to get your aggression under control...:>

Adriana

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| Message 14                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Breeding tilapia

From:    Chris Hedemark 

Date:    Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:34:38 -0500

charliec wrote:

> Help! |I am considering adding fish to balance my hydropnic operation and am

> seeking  a book or other source of basic info such as water temps for

> various species, # of fish/ gal or feet3, water chemistry etc. etc.   Thanks

>From Amazon.com:

Home Aquaculture 

by Steven D. Van Gorder 

Our Price: $18.95

Paperback (May 1983) 

Rodale Pr; ISBN: 0878574727 

Feed Management in Intensive Aquaculture 

by Stephen Goddard 

Our Price: $87.95

Availability: This title usually ships within 2-3 days.

Hardcover (March 1996) 

Chapman & Hall; ISBN: 0412070812 ; Dimensions (in inches): 0.63 x 9.31 x

6.18



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