Aquaponics Digest - Wed 05/19/99




Message   1: Re: zebra mussels

             from "Andrew.D" 

Message   2: Re: List of Suppliers

             from "Charlie Shultz" 

Message   3: Re: Tomatoes

             from joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)

Message   4: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

             from Dave Miller 

Message   5: Re: Seeding

             from joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)

Message   6: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

             from "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Message   7: Re: Tomatoes

             from "vpage" 

Message   8: Algae

             from S & S Aqua Farm 

Message   9: sunshade

             from "PJP" 

Message  10: RE: HELP my sweet potato and yam

             from "Ronald W. Brooks" 

Message  11: Re: sunshade

             from "KevinLReed" 

Message  12: Re: sunshade

             from Glen Seibert 

Message  13: Re: sunshade

             from "KevinLReed" 

Message  14: Re: Seeding

             from Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta

Message  15: Re: Algae

             from Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta

Message  16: Re: Algae

             from William Evans 

Message  17: Re: Algae

             from "Palchik" 

Message  18: Re: Algae

             from "Palchik" 

Message  19: Re: Seeding

             from "H. Allen Sylvester" 

Message  20: Re: sunshade

             from STUNTTMAN

Message  21: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

             from "H. Allen Sylvester" 

Message  22: Re: Algae

             from "Mark Brotman" 

Message  23: Re: sunshade

             from KLOTTTRUE

Message  24: Re: Algae

             from KLOTTTRUE

Message  25: Re: Algae

             from "vpage" 

Message  26: Re: sunshade

             from STUNTTMAN

Message  27: Re: Algae

             from Hydro/Aquatic Tech 

Message  28: Algae

             from Colin Johnston 

Message  29: Re: Algae

             from "Clark Allison" 

Message  30: Re: Seeding

             from Craig & Robin Prince 

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| Message 1                                                           |

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Subject: Re: zebra mussels

From:    "Andrew.D" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 17:36:26 +0930

In Australia the zebra mussels are contained in i.e.. a marina and then

chlorinated and then the chlorine is neutralised. It is very effective,

except that it kills everything else in the lower food chain.

Andrew

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| Message 2                                                           |

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Subject: Re: List of Suppliers

From:    "Charlie Shultz" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 06:10:48 PDT

Yesterday, Ron wrote:

>One of the best investments I made was buying Aquaculture Magazine's 99

>buyers guide. It was $18 and has over a hundred Tilapia suppliers and

>suppliers of most any type of aquatic species you might like to buy.

>

>Ron

>The One Who Walks Two Paths

Better yet, subscribe to Aquaculture magazine for 1 year.  The cost is 

$21(US) AND you receive the annual Buyer's Guide in December!

FYI,

Charlie

______________________________________________________

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

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| Message 3                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Tomatoes

From:    joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 09:27:19 -0400 (EDT)

Morning...

>The only medium that I have had good success with( no disease and no green

>build up) is coir or coconut fibre. You can buy it in blocks -they expand to

>3 times their size when wet. The coir can be reused and has a natural

Agro-Canada folk had mentioned coconut fibre to me, but they had not had any 

experience with it so...  You said it can be re-used... how do you sterilize

it??

>antibiotic quality. It wicks moisture and nutrients but allows for oxygen to

>get to the roots if it is not entirely submersed. It holds moisture in dry

>times or does not dry out like other media.  Unlike rock wool it is

>completely biodegradable. Except for consideration of the distance it

>travels to get to you it is more economical, financially and

It sounds to be just what I have been looking for.  We want to have as

enviromentally friendly place as possible...:) :) :)  Thanks for the info...:)

Joy Pye-MacSwain

Futue Aqua Farms

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| Message 4                                                           |

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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

From:    Dave Miller 

Date:    Tue, 18 May 1999 23:49:00 -0400

Jorg,

Cut your taters into sections each containing an eye. This can be hard

and may require waiting until a sweet potato goes to root on its own.

Each potential root is an eye. You should leave a minimum of one growth

mark per section when you cut them up. Let them air dry or "heal" prior

to replanting. They will be more resistant/stubborn compared to potatoes

but can be coaxed given patience. The trick is finding the eyes of the

tuber.

--

Dave

_______________________________________

«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»§«¤»¥«¤»§«¤»

¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯¯

A "green" home remodeler

A father of 2 cockatiels

An organic farmer

A veggie drummer/keyboardist

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| Message 5                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Seeding

From:    joyeuse@netcom.ca (Joy Pye-Macswain)

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 09:37:53 -0400 (EDT)

Morning Adriana,

>I've had excellent results with 100% perlite.  My understanding is that

>vermiculite holds more moisture, possibly too much.  If you want to use

>it you'll need to mix it with perlite.  There are two schools of thought

Is there any advantage to using vermiculite in a mixture with perlite???  

perlite alone??? or go with the coir/coconut fibre???  All these posibilities

hummmmmm....:) :) :)

>on seeding:  the first is to seed into trays or cell-packs and then

>transplant later into your growing beds.   The second is to seed

>directly into your beds at the desired spacing for grow-out.  If you

>seed directly into your planting beds you will be trading off less

>handling for reduced greenhouse yield.  If space is not at a premium I

>would avoid double-handling if at all possible.

For this first time out I was planning on seeding into cell packs and then 

later transplanting into the growing beds... the bosses want a _good_

greenhouse yield for this first run.....:) :) :)  I expect that for the next 

planting that I will try a couple of the beds with seeding directly into the 

growing beds and see if I can quantifify differences in yield, ....not to 

mention save myself some work, I hope......always a good thing...:) :) :)

 

>What type of growing system do you have in mind?  Flood & drain,

>nutrient film technique (NFT), perlite drip?  That will also influence

>the seeding issue.  For example if you plan to grow tomatoes in NFT you

>probably should start the seedlings in rockwool.

We are using a NFT system... ...which, of course brings me back around to

rockwool

or coir fibre????

Thanks for the help

Joy ...still trying to figure things out...:) :)

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| Message 6                                                           |

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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

From:    "Jorg D. Ostrowski" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 07:37:40 -0600 (MDT)

Dave: Thank you for this helpful start. Can I put the sweet potato in a

dish of water to get it to root? How long does it take to "heal"?

Jorg Ostrowski

 --------------------------

You said:

Cut your taters into sections each containing an eye. This can be hard

and may require waiting until a sweet potato goes to root on its own.

Each potential root is an eye. You should leave a minimum of one growth

mark per section when you cut them up. Let them air dry or "heal" prior

to replanting. They will be more resistant/stubborn compared to potatoes

but can be coaxed given patience. The trick is finding the eyes of the

tuber.

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| Message 7                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Tomatoes

From:    "vpage" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 08:50:32 -0600

I have never sterilized it.!!

Once the brick is used up, then I break the coir off the roots of the plant

it supported and use what I gather for potting soil. I mix that with my worm

castings, water with fish water... and never have to fertilize at that

stage.It eventually finds it s way to my outside beds where it acts like

peat moss without the mining.

VPage

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| Message 8                                                           |

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Subject: Algae

From:    S & S Aqua Farm 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 10:13:07 -0500

>From: wesleycoggins@webtv.net (wesley coggins)

>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:01:16 -0400 (EDT)

>To: snsaquasys@townsqr.com

>Subject: Algae

>

>Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish

>tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is

>something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish

>and plants growing in my growing beds.

> 

>

>Wes & Carole

>

>

S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775  417-256-5124

Web page  http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/

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| Message 9                                                           |

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Subject: sunshade

From:    "PJP" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 10:23:10 -0500

I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need some =

help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my plastic =

that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun.  We have a homemade =

greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend itself to =

a standard sunscreen.  Tempertures are already getting into the 100 =

degree range.

Thanks

Paul Parkey

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| Message 10                                                          |

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Subject: RE: HELP my sweet potato and yam

From:    "Ronald W. Brooks" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 11:23:03 -0400

Jorg

take a sweet potato and lay it in damp sand on it's side , cover with more

damp sand and keep it damp. after a few weeks you will notice shoots

starting to grow from the growing tip. After the shoots reach 4-6 inches

carefully remove them from the potato ( the potato should send out more

shoots ) place the shoots in damp sand until the are well rooted mist with

weak fertilizer solution daily.

Ron

The One Who Walks Two Paths

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| Message 11                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    "KevinLReed" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 09:19:45 -0700

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

Bostic enamel or epoxy paint will both stay very well.

Kevin

    -----Original Message-----

    From: PJP 

    To: aquaponics@townsqr.com 

    Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:22 AM

    Subject: sunshade

   =20

   =20

    I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need =

some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my =

plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun.  We have a =

homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend =

itself to a standard sunscreen.  Tempertures are already getting into =

the 100 degree range.

    Thanks

    =20

    Paul Parkey

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| Message 12                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    Glen Seibert 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 09:18:57 -0700

PJP wrote:

> 

> I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need

> some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my

> plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun.  We have a

> homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend

> itself to a standard sunscreen.  Tempertures are already getting into

> the 100 degree range.

> Thanks

> 

> Paul Parkey

Hi Paul!  Here at Fullerton College we just sand-blasted and recoated

our green houses and mist houses with good old fashioned whitewash!

(Go to    http://www.hydroponicsonline.com/Glen's%Garden.htm

to get a look at the greenhouse with whitewash.)

As you can see its a bit messy as it runs down the glass and onto the

foundation structures...hada been me I'd have masked off the bricks...

but it gives us about 70% light. I've measured 5000watts luminance at

noon on a hot day, and were at 33:52N / 117:59W.

There are also nylon shade cloths  with various weave densities that

give 30, 40 70 and 80 per cent light that work very well but will

require some kind of attatchments to stay in place.  The great theng

about them is you can peel them back on a cloudy day...

Good luck!

Glen Seibert

Fullerton College Hydroponics

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| Message 13                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    "KevinLReed" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 09:22:46 -0700

have you thought of bamboo or rattan window blinds or just

covering with shade cloth?

Kevin

    -----Original Message-----

    From: PJP 

    To: aquaponics@townsqr.com 

    Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:22 AM

    Subject: sunshade

   =20

   =20

    I've been a long time reader lurking on the sidelines, but now need =

some help. Does anyone know of substance that can be sprayed on my =

plastic that will screen out some of this Oklahoma sun.  We have a =

homemade greenhouse with an attached shed extension, that doesn't lend =

itself to a standard sunscreen.  Tempertures are already getting into =

the 100 degree range.

    Thanks

    =20

    Paul Parkey

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| Message 14                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Seeding

From:    Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 13:04:30 -0400

Hi Joy,

One of our extension offices here in Florida just completeed research

using various media alone and in combination with others and concluded

that perlite is as good as the others and more economical.  Why mess

with success?

> Is there any advantage to using vermiculite in a mixture with perlite???

> perlite alone??? or go with the coir/coconut fibre???  All these posibilities

> hummmmmm....:) :) :)

What are you growing?  Are using trays, troughs, tubes or some other

system?

Adriana

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| Message 15                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 13:06:51 -0400

Organic Gardening reported last month that straw is a good algaecide. 

They put the straw in net bags and floated it in ponds.

Adriana

> >Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish

> >tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is

> >something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish

> >and plants growing in my growing beds.

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| Message 16                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    William Evans 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 10:11:38 -0700

barley straw I believe

billevans

Adriana Gutierrez 

> Organic Gardening reported last month that straw is a good algaecide.

> They put the straw in net bags and floated it in ponds.

> 

>

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| Message 17                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    "Palchik" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:40:06 +0300 (IDT)

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| Message 18                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    "Palchik" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:47:40 +0300

Yes:

CuSO4 ,0.6ppm, twice:

First at 16.00hs, and the

second one the day after at 8.00hs. good luck

mauricio

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| Message 19                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Seeding

From:    "H. Allen Sylvester" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 12:46:14 -0500

A few considerations on the suggested seeding media:

Perlite squashes down and releases beaucoup little flakes of mica, which

may be objectionable floating around in the system.  This might

particularly affect filters.

Coir fiber is reported in some cases to be high in salts, unless it is

thoroughly leached.  This should be checked before it is put into an

aquaponics system.

Allen

H. Allen Sylvester

Baton Rouge, LA

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| Message 20                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    STUNTTMAN

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 14:05:25 EDT

S&S AQUA FARM SELLS A GREENHOUSE SHADING COMPOUND THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF YOUR 

HEAT PROBLEM. IT IS ABOUT 125.00$ FOR 5 GALLONS. DILUTION RATE OF 8-1 IS 

RECOMENDED. YOU CAN SPRAY IT ON WITH A PUMP UP INSECTICIDE SPRAYER.I HAVE IT 

ON MY POLY COVERED GREENHOUSE NOW IN SOUTHERN CA AND IT WORKS GREAT.

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| Message 21                                                          |

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Subject: Re: HELP my sweet potato and yam

From:    "H. Allen Sylvester" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 13:37:00 -0500

Jorg,

        If you really want to see what your sweet potato is doing, you can

stand it up and put three toothpicks spaced evenly around it such that

you can put it in a jar of water covering the bottom one-third or so of

the potato.  The tricky part is choosing the top, since the plant does

care.  The end that was attached to the plant has most of the buds and

should be the *top*.  It usually has a thicker stem entering it and is

often more pointed.  Then put it in a warm, well-lighted place.

        The sprouts are reasonably drought tolerant and are field planted - in

the sun - with no roots.  They wilt and then establish themselves.  They

probably might establish faster with roots, but roots are a hassle to

deal with in the field and it takes time to allow roots to develop. 

They should get at least about 6 inches tall to 10 inches, so they have

built up some energy reserves from the potato.

Allen

H. Allen Sylvester

Baton Rouge, LA

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| Message 22                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    "Mark Brotman" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 15:20:08 -0400

Hmm-- your message seems to have been blank... it was  ??

Palchik wrote:

--

Mark J. Brotman

Aquaculturist

CropKing

5050 Greenwich Rd.

Seville, OH  44273

Tel: 330/769-2002, Fax: 330/769-2616

Email: mbrotman@cropking.com

On the web at http://www.cropking.com

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| Message 23                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    KLOTTTRUE

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 17:44:02 EDT

In a message dated 5/19/99 4:39:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 

STUNTTMAN writes:

<< S&S AQUA FARM SELLS A GREENHOUSE SHADING COMPOUND THAT WILL TAKE CARE OF 

YOUR 

 HEAT PROBLEM. IT IS ABOUT 125.00$ FOR 5 GALLONS. DILUTION RATE OF 8-1 IS 

 RECOMENDED. YOU CAN SPRAY IT ON WITH A PUMP UP INSECTICIDE SPRAYER.I HAVE IT 

 ON MY POLY COVERED GREENHOUSE NOW IN SOUTHERN CA AND IT WORKS GREAT.

 

 >>

What percentage of light does it block out,and is it permanent? Ken

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| Message 24                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    KLOTTTRUE

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 17:58:34 EDT

In a message dated 5/19/99 1:29:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 

snsaquasys@townsqr.com writes:

<< From: wesleycoggins@webtv.net (wesley coggins)

 >Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 11:01:16 -0400 (EDT)

 >To: snsaquasys@townsqr.com

 >Subject: Algae

 >

 >Hi , Everyone I am still having severe Algae build up in my fish

 >tank,tried covering the tank, no luck, I want to know if there is

 >something I can put in the water to kill the algae and not harm my fish

 >and plants growing in my growing beds.

 > 

 >>

Use 3 ounces of Barley straw per square yard of water surface area,you can 

use wheat straw also,just double the amount. for on going mantinence,place 

half that amount every six months.Are you sure you're giving the covering 

time enough to work? I had the same problem,after a few cloudy days,the Algae 

disappeared.Ken

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| Message 25                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    "vpage" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 17:53:20 -0600

We cannot continue to solve these problems this way. There are kinder ways.

VPage

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| Message 26                                                          |

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Subject: Re: sunshade

From:    STUNTTMAN

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:45:46 EDT

There are 3 different kinds of shading compound.they range from permanent to 

very temporary.the temp washes after one rain.perm is good for a whole 

season.the dillution rate also affects how much shading you get, i mix mine 

at about 5-1 for more shade.

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| Message 27                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    Hydro/Aquatic Tech 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:55:23 -0400

Blocking the light from the algae (not just shading it,

blocking it) WILL knock out algae.  But as with most natural

methods, it does take a few days.  Beware blockage of pipes,

possible jammed impellers on the pumps, and drop in D.O. due

to mass die-offs.

One of my commercial customers just went through a bad spate

of Tilapia fry (pop-ups to 1 gram) loss.  This commercial

breeder has been in operation for several years, and is

quite experienced with her system.  

 The only major change in the system was the addition of

several fairly small windows high up the wall in an

otherwise totally sealed and insulated building last fall.

After much head shaking and hand-wringing (and the loss of

several thousand fry) we finally diagnosed the problem to

the growth of semi toxic algae in the systems. It seems that

as the sun changed its angle in the early spring it began to

shine through the windows for several hours a day, directly

into the tanks.  The combination of direct lighting and

higher than normal nitrate levels from farm run-off into the

local groundwater led to the growth of the algae.  Once we

blocked the light from the windows and drastically dropped

the inside illumination the algae died off in about 5 days. 

She is now back to producing thousands of healthy fry.

(note: this area (Chesapeake Bay area) is known for toxic

algae including Pfesteria (sp?) which caused several major

(10,000+) fish kills in local waters two years ago, and lose

of memory functions in several people working in the local

waters.)

Best regards,

Scott Jones

Hydro/Aquatic Technologies

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| Message 28                                                          |

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Subject: Algae

From:    Colin Johnston 

Date:    Thu, 20 May 1999 09:12:56 +0800

Check this site below if interested :

http://www.execpc.com/~aqsys/barley.html 

Colin

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| Message 29                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Algae

From:    "Clark Allison" 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:35:43 PDT

In reference to algae in an outside pond.  I have sort of a "gazing pond" 

lined with limestone over plastic.  I have stocked it with goldfish which 

seem to be doing fine.  However the algae is getting heavy.  I keep dipping 

it out but I thought there might be a fish that would eat the algae.  Please 

respond.

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| Message 30                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Seeding

From:    Craig & Robin Prince 

Date:    Wed, 19 May 1999 20:41:48 -0700

Hello Adrana

About your perlite system- I'm guessing you are using Ebb & Flow?

Also What is your cycling times.  Perlite sounds much easier to work with.

Any problems with keeping bactiria health?

Thanks Craig

Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta wrote:

S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775  417-256-5124

Web page  http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/



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