Aquaponics Digest - Mon 10/25/99




Message   1: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from "Robert Claytor" 

Message   2: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from "munser" 

Message   3: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from "Robert Claytor" 

Message   4: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

             from "Barry Thomas" 

Message   5: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from Ronald Polka 

Message   6: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta

Message   7: RE: Technical greenhouse question

             from "Ronald W. Brooks" 

Message   8: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

             from Marc & Marcy 

Message   9: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

             from Ronald Polka 

Message  10: Re: Technical greenhouse question

             from atkindw@cwjamaica.com (david w atkinson)

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| Message 1                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    "Robert Claytor" 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 03:50:38 PDT

We have a small 10x20 ft. greebhouse we built 15 years ago by setting the 

whole thing six feet into the ground.  This gives the earth's "thermal 

flywheel" effect and allows cooler summers and warmer winters. the walls 

into the ground are built of 8" concrete block coated with "Surewall" which 

is fiberglass reinforced grout .  We had no skills in laying up concrete 

blocks with mortar.  Anyway, we built a hoop-like roof from aluminum conduit 

over the top and cover the whole south-facing side with shade cloth in the 

summer. The floor is lined with 55 gallon drums full of water, with 

seedlings, etc. grown on top of the drums.  It works beautifully.  doesn't 

freeze in the winter, doesn't cook in the summer. We live in North Georgia 

and we KNOW what a hot summer is!

rclaytor@hotmail.com

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| Message 2                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    "munser" 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 06:53:21 -0500

Robert,

Where did you get the plans for your greenhouse?  It sounds like one I could

use.  I'm in Little Rock, AR (Zone 7) and I like the idea of the underground

portion taking advantage of "nature's insulation".  Thanks in advance for

any info you can give me, Ginger Unser

-----Original Message-----

From: Robert Claytor 

To: aquaponics@townsqr.com 

Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 5:42 AM

Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

>

>We have a small 10x20 ft. greebhouse we built 15 years ago by setting the

>whole thing six feet into the ground.  This gives the earth's "thermal

>flywheel" effect and allows cooler summers and warmer winters. the walls

>into the ground are built of 8" concrete block coated with "Surewall" which

>is fiberglass reinforced grout .  We had no skills in laying up concrete

>blocks with mortar.  Anyway, we built a hoop-like roof from aluminum

conduit

>over the top and cover the whole south-facing side with shade cloth in the

>summer. The floor is lined with 55 gallon drums full of water, with

>seedlings, etc. grown on top of the drums.  It works beautifully.  doesn't

>freeze in the winter, doesn't cook in the summer. We live in North Georgia

>and we KNOW what a hot summer is!

>

>rclaytor@hotmail.com

>

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| Message 3                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    "Robert Claytor" 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 05:25:09 PDT

Ginger

I got the ideas for our solar greenhouse from a number of books I bought 

from Rodale press ( the "Organic Gardening " people ). They have several 

books about solar greenhouse design.  I have seen them at the local libraty, 

maybe you could find them there.  If not, I can look up and give you some 

titles of the books I have. It really works. We have banana trees growing in 

Half-barrels ("whiskey kegs") that have grown there for years.  But no 

banans... then a friend pointed out to me that all my trees were MALES. Oh 

well they are still beautiful.......

bc

>From: "munser" 

>Reply-To: aquaponics@townsqr.com

>To: 

>Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

>Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 06:53:21 -0500

>

>Robert,

>Where did you get the plans for your greenhouse?  It sounds like one I 

>could

>use.  I'm in Little Rock, AR (Zone 7) and I like the idea of the 

>underground

>portion taking advantage of "nature's insulation".  Thanks in advance for

>any info you can give me, Ginger Unser

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| Message 4                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

From:    "Barry Thomas" 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:08:45 +0100



>. The roof heat loss due to outside blower inlet air

> amounts to just over 1 % of the total. The size of this loss becomes

> insignificant relative to other things such as infiltration of cold

outside

> air which is nearly always the largest single component in the

greenhouse

> heat balance equation. This is directly related to construction

practices

> and quality of weather stripping and sealing.

>

> Ron Polka

> Southwest Technology Development Institute

> New Mexico State University

> Box 30001, Dept 3SOL

> Las Cruces, NM  88003

> rpolka@nmsu.edu

>

Ron,

Many thanks for setting me right on this - the explanation of the answer

was especially appreciated.

It does raise a couple of points that (along with a few others) I have

been so far unable to resolve though. My knowledge of large

gutter-connected GHs is even sketchier than that of smaller single span

structures so if we could look at the simpler example of a twin-walled

poly tunnel about the same size as one of the bays you mention (approx.

30' x 100'), I'd be grateful.  :)

This would use a high-pressure/low-volume fan to provide inflation only

and a low-pressure/high-volume exhaust fan for cooling and introduction

of fresh air, yes?

But, both inflation and internal air quality are dependent on a fairly

constant (or regular at least) inflow of outside air. Temperatures on

the other hand can fluctuate significantly over a wide range of

timescales. And yet it is air quality and temp control that are linked

rather than air quality and inflation. This seems to cause a number of

problems. Among the more pressing of these are:

1) During the day, you must put a lot of energy into your exhaust fans

in order to remove large amounts of heat energy from the GH - non of

this heat is recoverable for use during the night and more energy must

be input to maintain nighttime temps.

2) At intervals during the night (or any colder period), internal air

quality demands that the exhaust fans be used to pull in clean air -

this must result not only in unwelcome temp fluctuations but also

increased heating costs as warm internal air is exhausted direct to the

atmosphere and no heat exchange occurs with the incoming cold air.

3) Pulling air out of the GH is always going to encourage leakage of

outside air into the structure. This appears worse than the same

flowrate of warm air escaping outwards as the incoming cold air

increases in volume once inside, ie - although the actual rate of

leakage is the same in either direction, it's worse when cold air moves

in?

(I assume that infiltration of cold air is less of a problem in single

span

tunnels anyway as there are fewer joins to seal?)

4) High water use during hot weather. The large volumes of air involved

in cooling via exhaust fans makes recovery of useful amounts transpired

and evaporated water difficult at best. If additional evaporative

coolers are used...

Most of these problems would seem to be removed or reduced if the air

from the the envelope _is_ exhausted into the GH, the volume of air

introduced by the inflation fan increased to that needed to maintain air

quality and cooling/heating achieved/aided via an active heat sink - the

exhaust fan being removed or kept for emergencies only. The most obvious

benefit from doing this is removal (or softening) of the link between

temps and airflow. Such a structure should also allow some level of heat

exchange between incoming/outgoing air, a slight positive internal

pressure to the GH to prevent/reduce ingress of cold air (and other

things) via imperfect seals and the ability to reuse some of the energy

you've gone to such trouble to remove during the day etc etc. The

reduced airflow should also allow easier/better integration with other

processes such as water recovery etc.

So, although I would certainly take your advice and use standard exhaust

fans if I was setting up a large commercial system, do you think this

could be a worthwhile model to aim at for a small commercial or large

hobby/testbed system where a little experimentation is less costly in

the event of failure? Although the heat pumps required to shift energy

between GH and heat sink will require power, it might be less than that

used by the standard model and other benefits could easily outweigh

cost?

Does this hang together do you think? Are there any major problems you

(or anyone else) see with this approach or any ways it should be altered

for improvement? Anyone happen to know of info regarding attempts in

this direction?

Thanks again for the info so far - sorry my own is so vague. :)

Barry

barrythomas@crosswinds.net

PS While I am searching and reading these subjects, if anyone has URLs

to relevant info handy (esp. heat transfer calcs) to help narrow the

search, I'd be very happy to receive them

.

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| Message 5                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    Ronald Polka 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:34:59 -0600

At 03:12 PM 10/24/1999 -0400, you wrote:

>

>1.  Can hoop structures be retrofitted to allow some passive convection

>ventilation, avoiding the need for fans and cooling for at least some of

>the year?  I've seen some advertisements for commercial hoop structures

>with what appears to be a vented hoop which lifts up from one side,

>almost creating a sawtooth effect.  Or can you put in some central ridge

>venting?

>

As Ron Brooks wrote a hoop gh can be retrofitted most easily by removing

the endwalls during the summer months.

The commercial houses that have ridge vents or large side vents are quite

expensive and may not be amenable to retrofitting. You would need to

contact the vendors regarding that.

>2.  Is there a way to run fans with solar power?  This requires some

>up-front capital investment but reduces operating costs. If so, what are

>the reliability issues related to this equipment?  Will sea air and

>extreme sunlight lead to a short life for the equipment and lots of

>headaches down the road?

Exhaust fans can be run with power from photovoltaic panels. The

disadvantage is the cost and in most situations this is insurmountable. If

you have access to grid power it is very doubtful that PV powered fans can

be cost effective. Exhaust fans require a relatively large electric

service. If considering PV power you must examine some of the following

issues.

What is the required air flowrate for sizing the exhaust fan?

Will you then size the PV system to run directly from the panels, if so can

you find the right DC motor for your fan? This can be a problem.

If you decide to run your exhaust fan with an easily purchased AC motor

then you will need to size and purchase batteries, a charge controller, and

an invertor, all rather expensive system components.

A battery powered system will allow you to size the system with fewer PV

panels, itself a substantial savings, but offset by the balance of system

costs of the other components.

The beauty of a solely DC system with no controllers is that to a certain

degree it is self controlling. When the sun is the brightest and the need

for ventilation the greatest the PV system will supply the most power.

However, system component sizing is critical when this approach is

attempted and there will be times when the PV system is generating power

that is not being used.

To give you a real life for instance. A few years ago I sized and costed

out a PV system for a small commercial greenhouse that was to be built one

mile off the electric power grid. After detailed system sizing and

extensive analysis I determined that the most cost effective means of

operating this greenhouse was with a diesel generator. It wasn't what the

owner wanted to hear but wishful thinking is not conducive to running a

successful business.

To sum it up I would have to say that in light of the high capital cost of

PV systems versus the moderate operating costs of AC ventilation systems

you should carefully examine the economics of photovoltaic systems before

committing yourself.

Ron Polka

Southwest Technology Development Institute

New Mexico State University

Box 30001, Dept 3SOL

Las Cruces, NM  88003

rpolka@nmsu.edu

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| Message 6                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    Adriana Gutierrez & Dennis LaGatta 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:48:03 -0400

Thanks again Ron, I read you loud and clear.  Removing the end panels

sounds like a very practical solution.  I wish I had known about it last

June...

> As Ron Brooks wrote a hoop gh can be retrofitted most easily by removing

> the endwalls during the summer months

> It wasn't what the

> owner wanted to hear but wishful thinking is not conducive to running a

> successful business.

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| Message 7                                                           |

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Subject: RE: Technical greenhouse question

From:    "Ronald W. Brooks" 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:42:41 -0400

Well I have to disagree

there is no such thing as all male Banana's. Each Banana has female ,

hermaphrodite and male flowers in all the same stalk. I grow Banana's up

north in my greenhouse and do not have a big problem getting them to fruit.

They are very heavy feeders , I use a slow release granule ( 1 -3 pounds ) a

month. Plus mix 30-30-30 in the water , and water every day, even in the

winter. Also I keep them in my warm orchid section , the temps do not drop

below 70 at night.  Also Banana's like to grow in "mats" ( groups of more

than 1 )

I can send you some growing FAQ's private if you want.

Ron

The One Who Walks Two Paths

ICQ 44271371

-> -----Original Message-----

-> From: aquaponics

-> [mailto:aquaponics]On Behalf Of Robert Claytor

-> Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 8:25 AM

-> To: aquaponics@townsqr.com

-> Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

->

-> . We have banana

-> trees growing in

-> Half-barrels ("whiskey kegs") that have grown there for years.  But no

-> banans... then a friend pointed out to me that all my trees were

-> MALES. Oh

-> well they are still beautiful.......

->

-> bc

->

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| Message 8                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

From:    Marc & Marcy 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:19:54 -0600

> none of

> this heat is recoverable for use during the night and more energy must

> be input to maintain nighttime temps.

There are practical techniques available to store this heat

energy and recover it at night.

> this must result not only in unwelcome temp fluctuations but also

> increased heating costs as warm internal air is exhausted direct to the

> atmosphere and no heat exchange occurs with the incoming cold air.

The incoming cold air can be routed through the heat storage

and at least raise the temperature if not fully heat it.

There are ways of insuring heat is as constant as you want

it.

  

> Does this hang together do you think? Are there any major problems you

> (or anyone else) see with this approach or any ways it should be altered

> for improvement? Anyone happen to know of info regarding attempts in

> this direction?

As Ron Polka demonstrated, various motor/fan characteristics

are well defined and calculations may be made using

non-olympian mathematics so a system may be engineered using

common existing technology and talent to do things a big as

your pocketbook. 

The same holds true for other environmental factors you may

want to manipulate.

A huge range of possibilities exist depending on your

capitalization, talent resources, local building and zoning

codes, time constraints, personal goals, etc.

Make environmental choices such as large or small temp

variations, humidity mins/maxs/variations, constant or

intermittent airflow, etc. etc. What environment do you

want? This will define the controls you need.

The main question to many is "what am I willing and/or able

to spend?". The technology, time, talent, money

calculation/compromise plan usually converges thing only

after several plan iterations are made. Previously

unimportant things become important and vice versa.

For most the main thing is money and/or profit.

I recently did a study on solar electricity for aquaponics

pumping purposes. It is a viable and economical idea for an

intermittent pumping system. We are implementing it here as

we use the S&S paradigm which has an intermittent pumping

system.

A continuous duty battery operated fan/pumping/charging

system cannot work unless you have  photovoltaic capacity

that can charge batteries AND run the fans simultaneously.

This is a horrendously expensive system. I can operate on

the power grid or company owned generator more profitably

after amortization.

A intermittent fan/pumping system can work with batteries if

the photovoltaics can produce enough battery recharge to

power your fans between fan cycles. Significantly fewer

photovoltaics than the continuously run system.

Two possible scenarios using common technology. Both would

satisfy my needs. The price difference is a factor of around

5. The intermittent system with give me higher profits, less

initial cash outflow and the same quality end product,

plants and fish.

Marc S. Nameth

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| Message 9                                                           |

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Subject: Re: Inflation Fans, In or Out?

From:    Ronald Polka 

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:19:56 -0600

Barry

At 04:08 PM 10/25/1999 +0100, you wrote:

>

>It does raise a couple of points that (along with a few others) I have

>been so far unable to resolve though. My knowledge of large

>gutter-connected GHs is even sketchier than that of smaller single span

>structures so if we could look at the simpler example of a twin-walled

>poly tunnel about the same size as one of the bays you mention (approx.

>30' x 100'), I'd be grateful.  :)

>

>This would use a high-pressure/low-volume fan to provide inflation only

>and a low-pressure/high-volume exhaust fan for cooling and introduction

>of fresh air, yes?

>

>But, both inflation and internal air quality are dependent on a fairly

>constant (or regular at least) inflow of outside air. Temperatures on

>the other hand can fluctuate significantly over a wide range of

>timescales. And yet it is air quality and temp control that are linked

>rather than air quality and inflation. This seems to cause a number of

>problems. Among the more pressing of these are:

>

>1) During the day, you must put a lot of energy into your exhaust fans

>in order to remove large amounts of heat energy from the GH - non of

>this heat is recoverable for use during the night and more energy must

>be input to maintain nighttime temps.

For the hobby greenhouse this is frequently solved by the use of thermal

storage such as black 55 gal drums filled with water. This is not done

commercially because floor space occupied by anything but plants translates

into less income. Under most circumstances you will still have to exhaust

hot air during the day but with drums you can temper your night time temp

drops a bit.

>

>2) At intervals during the night (or any colder period), internal air

>quality demands that the exhaust fans be used to pull in clean air -

>this must result not only in unwelcome temp fluctuations but also

>increased heating costs as warm internal air is exhausted direct to the

>atmosphere and no heat exchange occurs with the incoming cold air.

This may happen if you are doing environmental control based on air quality

such as CO2 levels. This is usually done in the large commercial  ranges.

And then if CO2 levels need augmentation it is usually done with combustion

of natural gas or propane that also heats the house at the same time rather

than pull in frigid outside air. The interior air is usually not exhausted

unless the temps require it.

>3) Pulling air out of the GH is always going to encourage leakage of

>outside air into the structure. This appears worse than the same

>flowrate of warm air escaping outwards as the incoming cold air

>increases in volume once inside, ie - although the actual rate of

>leakage is the same in either direction, it's worse when cold air moves

>in?

This is rather confusing, I'm not sure what you are saying here. Any air

that is exhausted whether by positive or negative pressure must be replaced

by outside air. These are very much identical scenarios thermodynamically.

Negative pressure ventilation allows cold exterior air to enter at multiple

locations. Positive pressure ventilation allows warm interior air to exit

at multiple locations. If venting is temperature controlled the end result

is nearly the same.

>(I assume that infiltration of cold air is less of a problem in single

>span

>tunnels anyway as there are fewer joins to seal?)

True, the contiguous span of poly houses have few joints that allow

infiltration. 

>4) High water use during hot weather. The large volumes of air involved

>in cooling via exhaust fans makes recovery of useful amounts transpired

>and evaporated water difficult at best. If additional evaporative

>coolers are used...

Water use for cooling can be substantial but recovery is impossible from a

practical viewpoint. That technology is NASA stuff, way beyond our capability.

>Most of these problems would seem to be removed or reduced if the air

>from the the envelope _is_ exhausted into the GH, the volume of air

>introduced by the inflation fan increased to that needed to maintain air

>quality and cooling/heating achieved/aided via an active heat sink - the

>exhaust fan being removed or kept for emergencies only. The most obvious

>benefit from doing this is removal (or softening) of the link between

>temps and airflow. Such a structure should also allow some level of heat

>exchange between incoming/outgoing air, a slight positive internal

>pressure to the GH to prevent/reduce ingress of cold air (and other

>things) via imperfect seals and the ability to reuse some of the energy

>you've gone to such trouble to remove during the day etc etc. The

>reduced airflow should also allow easier/better integration with other

>processes such as water recovery etc.

Part of the problem here is mixing together two very different concepts.

One is the removal of excess heat during the day via mass transport of hot

air. The other is minimizing heat losses during the night. When the exhaust

fans are running the status of the inflated envelope is irrelevant. In fact

heat transfer to the outside would be more effective if the envelope were

deflated. This would increase the convective heat loss cofficient to the

environment. When the exhaust fans are off at night you would like to have

the inflation blower operate at as low a flowrate as possible to reduce the

mass flowrate into the envelope. This is acomplished by installing the poly

glazing with the fewest possible areas for leakage, either into or out of

the greenhouse. 

Taking advantage of these two different energy flows is quite difficult in

practice. This is due mainly to the quality of the heat that you are

dealing with. The temperature differentials are rather small which in turn

reduces heat transfer efficiencies. Industrial processes that capture waste

heat streams typically work with much higher temps.

>So, although I would certainly take your advice and use standard exhaust

>fans if I was setting up a large commercial system, do you think this

>could be a worthwhile model to aim at for a small commercial or large

>hobby/testbed system where a little experimentation is less costly in

>the event of failure? Although the heat pumps required to shift energy

>between GH and heat sink will require power, it might be less than that

>used by the standard model and other benefits could easily outweigh

>cost?

I would look at heat pump costs very carefully. They are capital intensive.

If you are looking at the standard air coupled heat pumps the coefficient

of performance is not that great. The heat pumps that are set up as earth

coupled or water coupled will provide a much better coefficient of

performance but are more site specific and cost more. If you already have a

heat pump for your house and have excess capacity this may be a cost

effective approach, otherwise it may be questionable. Your local electric

rates will play an important part in this decision. Plus when you do have

to dump heat during the day you will have to dump a lot quickly, hence the

use of large volume fans for exhaust.

>Does this hang together do you think? Are there any major problems you

>(or anyone else) see with this approach or any ways it should be altered

>for improvement? Anyone happen to know of info regarding attempts in

>this direction?

>

Ron Polka

Southwest Technology Development Institute

New Mexico State University

Box 30001, Dept 3SOL

Las Cruces, NM  88003

rpolka@nmsu.edu

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| Message 10                                                          |

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Subject: Re: Technical greenhouse question

From:    atkindw@cwjamaica.com (david w atkinson)

Date:    Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:32:17 -0700

Hey Robert,

Do not wait.  Post a listing of those titles you spoke about.  I am

interested to hear.

David A. (from Jamaica WI)

At 05:25 AM 10/25/1999 PDT, you wrote:

>Ginger

>

>I got the ideas for our solar greenhouse from a number of books I bought 

>from Rodale press ( the "Organic Gardening " people ). They have several 

>books about solar greenhouse design. ...snip...  snip..



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