Aquaponics Digest - Sun 06/03/01



Message   1: Re: Aquaponics Digest - Sat 06/02/01
             from "Stan Clayton" 

Message   2: "red wax" growth
             from "STEVE SPRING" 

Message   3: Aeration
             from dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com

Message   4: Re: Temperature ranges
             from dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com

Message   5: Re: Temperature ranges
             from dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com

Message   6: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message   7: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message   8: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message   9: Re: BASIL
             from "gutierrez-lagatta" 

Message  10: Re: BASIL
             from "gutierrez-lagatta" 

Message  11: Re: Help anyone!!
             from fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)

Message  12: Re: BASIL
             from "TGTX" 

Message  13: Reply to - Re: Proposed Organic Standards for Aquatic Animals
             from "David Atkinson" 

Message  14: Re: Temperature ranges
             from fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)

Message  15: RE:  Temperature ranges
             from Jim Joyner 

Message  16: Affordable feed sources
             from Darren Pearce 

Message  17: Cantaloupe methodology
             from Darren Pearce 

Message  18: Re: Temperature ranges
             from "TGTX" 

Message  19: THERAPY
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message  20: Re: THERAPY
             from "TGTX" 

Message  21: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message  22: Re: BASIL
             from "TGTX" 

Message  23: Re: Affordable feed sources
             from "gutierrez-lagatta" 

Message  24: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message  25: Re: BASIL
             from "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 

Message  26: RE: Temperature ranges
             from "Ron Brooks" 

Message  27: Re: Aeration
             from "KenHale" 

Message  28: Fwd. fish sp for acuaponics HELP
             from S & S Aqua Farm 

Message  29: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions
             from "Arlos" 

Message  30: Re: Affordable feed sources
             from Bertmcl 'at' aol.com

Message  31: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions
             from "Arlos" 

Message  32: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions
             from dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com

Message  33: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions
             from "Arlos" 

Message  34: problems with basil
             from "Eric Tan" 

Message  35: Re: BASIL
             from cmollison 'at' eoec.co.za (Chris Mollison)

| Message 1  

Subject: Re: Aquaponics Digest - Sat 06/02/01
From:    "Stan Clayton" 
Date:    Sat, 2 Jun 2001 22:34:35 -0700

Bruce wrote:

| Message 26 

Subject: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions
From:    fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)
Date:    Sat, 2 Jun 2001 14:31:48 -0500 (CDT)

Stan Im not arguing. Just stateing the not so obvious facts so mistakes
are not made by the less informed newbies on the list.  Bruce

Not to worry, Bruce.  I took your comments in the spirit they were given.
And I agree it's difficult to attain precision and completeness in an
informal discussion group.  To describe low pressure air injection as
"aerating" the water is to make the same culturally accepted mistake as to
say "the sun rose in the east" -- decriptive, but not technically accurate.
The bottom line is to assure our fish have plenty of oxygen to breathe
. ;)

| Message 2  

Subject: "red wax" growth
From:    "STEVE SPRING" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 01:24:25 -0500

Hi All,

Any of you gurus out there familiar with a growth on peach tree leaves that
looks just like "red wax"? It completely eats the leaves.

Doesn't bother the plum trees
.just the peaches.

Just a thought. I'm having a problem with this. GEEZ! The fun of an aspiring
farmer never stops!

Steve   :)

| Message 3  

Subject: Aeration
From:    dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com
Date:    Sun, 03 Jun 2001 02:24:38 -0700

Just to back up my earlier claims. I found I had asked some questions on
aeration back in 99
. here's part of that post.
Researchers at Auburn University evaluated the performance of many
aerators and studied the effect of design features and operating
conditions on performance. Results in terms of pounds of oxygen
transferred per kilowatt of electrical power used are summarized below: =

                                       SAE lb O2/hp-hr
                                     -----------------
        Aerator type             Average          Range
       --------------            --------        -----------
    Paddle wheel, all types       3.1            1.6 - 4.3
    Propeller-aspirator pump      2.3            1.9 - 2.6
    Vertical pump                 2.0            1.0 - 2.6
    Pump sprayer                  1.9            1.3 - 2.8
    Diffusion                     1.3            1.0 - 2.3

Somewhere in someones literature it says:

Performance =

The ability of an aerator to transfer oxygen to water is expressed as
the standard oxygen transfer rate (SOTR) and the standard aerator
efficiency (SAE). The SOTR is the amount of oxygen that an aerator will
transfer in 1 hour to clear freshwater at 20=B0C which contains 0 mg/I DO=
=2E
SOTR usually is expressed as pounds of oxygen per hour. The SAE is
simply the SOTR divided by power input; it normally is expressed as
pounds of oxygen per kilowatt~hour or pounds of oxygen per horsepower.
Power input may be expressed as power applied to the aerator shaft
(brake power) or the electricity consumption by the aerator (wire
power); it is best for practical purposes to express SAE in terms of the
rated horsepower of the aeration unit. Standard conditions employed for
presenting SOTR and SAE values seldom exist in aquaculture systems. As
DO concentration and water temperature rises, actual oxygen transfer
rate and actual aeration efficiency decrease with respect to SOTR and
SAE. For example, at 30=B0C and 4 mg/I DO, an aerator would transfer only=

about 50% of the oxygen suggested by SOTR and SAE. Nevertheless, SOTR
and SAE are important for they permit comparisons of efficiency among
aerators.

| Message 4  

Subject: Re: Temperature ranges
From:    dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com
Date:    Sun, 03 Jun 2001 02:55:16 -0700

Charlie how will you try to cool the root zones? By what methods of
chilling?

Anyways mon.Jus chill
. and cool breeze to you

:> Greetings.
Mike
JAMAICA.

Charlie Shultz wrote:
> 

> 2)  If the producer wishes to continue production of say lettuce in the hot
> summers months, we are looking into temperature regulation of our systems.
> We have six replicated floating raft systems which are slated to conduct
> temperature experiments this summer.  We are attempting to chill the water
> below 76F in an attempt to reduce damage from root fungus.

| Message 5  

Subject: Re: Temperature ranges
From:    dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com
Date:    Sun, 03 Jun 2001 03:04:54 -0700

Charlie/Folks
. check this out
this may be of some use to some of you
re chilling

http://www.maya-airconditioning.com/car-w10e.htm

Btw Charlie, was out on the farm this week liming with your friend, had
a real good time, and got a lot of new ideas for gizmos
.will keep U
posted

Mike

dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com wrote:
> 
> Charlie how will you try to cool the root zones? By what methods of
> chilling?
> 
> Anyways mon.> Jus chill
. and cool breeze to you

> 
> :> Greetings.
> Mike
> JAMAICA.
> 
> Charlie Shultz wrote:
> >
> 
> > 2)  If the producer wishes to continue production of say lettuce in the hot
> > summers months, we are looking into temperature regulation of our systems.
> > We have six replicated floating raft systems which are slated to conduct
> > temperature experiments this summer.  We are attempting to chill the water
> > below 76F in an attempt to reduce damage from root fungus.

--

| Message 6  

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 
Date:    Sat, 2 Jun 2001 15:00:25 +0200

----- Original Message -----
From: "TGTX" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 3:32 AM
Subject: Re: BASIL

> Dear  HONORARY TOMATO>>>Actually we do not have a culture of pesto in
South Africa- covert snooping on supermarket shelves shows a 2-3 stems of
4-5 leaves (heat sealed in cellophane packaging)  with a suitably
"minimalist" sticker to justify the price and it is only freely available in
upmarket "deli" type places.

> Tell me about the actual temperature high and low in your greenhouse, and
if
> you can, the humidity cycle from day to night.  Cool nights with
> accompanying condensation might contribute to necrotic spots.
>This could be relevant. (I have neurotic spots: not only am I starting to
look like my basset hounds but now the basil too:  the necrotic bit could be
a bit much). Our winter climate in the Highveld is typified by sunny , warm
days and very cold nights. By ten 'o clock in the morning we are out of
jerseys and by five in the evening it cools down very quickly. Outdoor temps
minus 2C at 5.45am (life is too short to work out the little degree goody on
the keyboard) to an average high of 25C at midday. In the greenhouse
(11x3.5m, plastic covered, quonset, lined with plastic bubble wrap during
the winter, two upper, screened windows open during the daytime for
ventilation) average temps over the last two weeks (the time span that the
black spot has really become a problem) 8C early in the morning and 30C
midday. There is always condensation in the greenhouse during the course of
the morning.: not really noticeable by lunchtime) I have read that basil
does not like having the leaves wet: I have not noticed that they are.
Sometimes our ebb and flow is out of synch (that learning curve is more like
a hamster's wheel) and I feel that the feet of the plants are standing in
too much water but taking  the cycle time this is never for long periods of
time. No doubt you have read Adrianna's and Claude's contribution on black
spots: my next move is?

> >> about more standard terms of art like "Fairway"

"Birdie"

"Par"

 "Cut" and "Slice" would make them nervous but "Hook" would be too cruel :
the golf course never really figured in our "business plan" (yeah, right as
you say in the USA)  but we have just spent the morning collecting ladybirds
there. Fortunately the locals are used to our little eccentricities. No
commercial "Insectaries" in South Africa so trying to lure the little aphid
eaters with a promise of free board and lodge and not mentioning the spider
population. Please can someone do a website: "Ten Easy Steps to Propogating
Predatory Insects" : I'll read it right after "Ten Easy Steps to Propogating
Tilapia" but first I have to work out which are Males and Females (insects
and fish, that is). The Internet provides good clues but who knows if the
answer is right.

> >  watch that slice. Who told you about the slice?
>
>
> Tedzo
> (Rusty lug nut golf course groundskeeper.) For real? My son is a 2
handicap golfer and wants to convert the lawn into a putting green- runs in
the family.
>

| Message 7  

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:06:52 +0200

----- Original Message -----
From: "gutierrez-lagatta" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 11:48 PM
Subject: Re: BASIL

> Welcome  Margi!

     Thank you - it is really nice to chat to you: so
to speak.

>   4-5 months after seeding

       Should some of the crop be left to
reseed or does this result in weak plants?

> the single-cut and then tear out method 

     This sounds like open
heart surgery by Aztecs:  Would you explain and I will keep it in mind for
future use.  I have pruned every infected leaf in three beds, individually
,with my cuticle scissors  (all my life
); if this does not bring the black
spot to controllable levels I guess I will be touting "Stalk Pesto" .
> >
>
 Florida 

     to Birmingham, Alabama? I visited a firm (Nelson
Brothers) there a few years ago and, apart from the accents, your town is a
dead ringer for Bronkhorstspruit.

  Once a plant gets them you can't get rid of it on that plant

  That
makes me feel a lot better,  thank you. Presumably it also jumps across from
plant to plant. Those cuticle scissors are getting a little blunt.

> >  I would suspect either an iron or magnesium deficiency.> Did you by any
chance have your source water analyzed

> Our municipal water was
analysed: we top up the "sump bucket" with water left leave standing, at
least overnight, in a plastic water tank. Confess that on at least two
occassions make-up water (to keep the fish beautiful?) has, inadvertently,
gone in directly from the hose-pipe. Had no visible effect on the fish but
it probably wipes out a lot of growing bed bacteria.

The analysis in mg/l (except PH)
PH                                             7.4
Turbidity                                     0.5
Conductivity                                29
Colour                                        <5
Total Hardness as CACO3          96
Calcium Hardness as CACO3     38
Alkilinity as CACO3                    92
Calcium as CA                             15
Magnesium as Mg                        14
Chloride as Cl                              10
Sulphur as SO4                              6
Nitrate as N  1.1
Total Dissolved Solids                  189

Corrosive Index
PH Stability                                    8.3
Langelier Index (Conductivity)       -0.9
Ryznar Stability Index                     9.7
Corrosive Index                              0.2

I have read the Attra article on Rock Dusts and see that S 'at' S supplement
their beds in a similar way. To date unable to source an equivalent product
in S.Africa and our exchange rate to the dollar makes importing off the
internet unfeasible. Any alternatives?

Did Paula send you the 12-Step Program Kit also?

Paula knows that my
brain cells are coming out of hibernation and more than likely feels that
going up and down Step One has been more than enough for now. Now that  I
know they exist, however; can't wait to see them.

Thank you for your help
Margi Gibbison

| Message 8  

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "Ray & Margi Gibbison" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:28:43 +0200

----- Original Message -----
From: "Claude Gelinas agr." 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 3:58 AM
Subject: Re: BASIL

> Le ven, 02 jun 2001, vous avez écrit :  very cool heading! Speak French
 it is French?) to me anytime- can't understand a word but it makes me feel
very chic.

Dear Claude
Thank you- I think my plants have all of the bacteria mentioned. Bugs I can
see: if I can see it, I can kill it. Bacteria are very scary. If I have
them: how do I get rid of them. I take the rudimentary precautions of
cleanliness by disinfecting the greenhouse floor and I keep the floor and
growing beds free of leaf matter. I dont know if it would have helped if I
trimmed infected leaves earlier.
My basic knowledge of bacteria is that they thrive in warm, humid places
which makes things a little difficult. The outdoor climate (mid-winter) is
warm and the air is very dry in the Highveld.
Best Regards
Margi Gibbison

>   Claude Gélinas Agr., D.T.A.
>   PHYTO Resources
> ========================================================================
>  Varennes, Québec, Canada       Tél: (450) 652 9764 Fax : (450) 652 6182
>   Des questions sur les insectes et maladies des plantes ornementales ?
>             Want to know more about ornamental plant pest ?
>                        http://www.phyto.qc.ca

>
>

| Message 9  

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "gutierrez-lagatta" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 04:53:54 -0500

Are you disinfecting those cuticle scissors between cuts?
> > the single-cut and then tear out method 

     This sounds like
open
> heart surgery by Aztecs:  Would you explain and I will keep it in
mind for
> future use.  I have pruned every infected leaf in three beds,
individually
> ,with my cuticle scissors  (all my life
); if this does not bring
the black
> spot to controllable levels I guess I will be touting "Stalk Pesto".
Well, lets make sure you have the right one, it begins by standing up
in a room (email group) and statting:  Hello my name is margi and I am
an.> Did Paula send you the 12-Step Program Kit also?

Paula knows
that my
> brain cells are coming out of hibernation and more than likely feels
that
> going up and down Step One has been more than enough for now. Now
that  I
> know they exist, however; can't wait to see them.

Adriana

| Message 10 

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "gutierrez-lagatta" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 04:57:29 -0500

No, I would start with fresh seed.  If you want to go into seed
production I would do it outside and not waste valuable production
space.
> >   4-5 months after seeding

       Should some of the crop be
left to
> reseed or does this result in weak plants?

| Message 11 

Subject: Re: Help anyone!!
From:    fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 08:59:58 -0500 (CDT)

Ralph    Just so you know for the future the main and almost only cause
of ick is thermal shock caused by too rapid of a temp. change.This
happens most often when aquatic animals are not floated in the bag for
long enough to gradually equalize the water temp. of their bags water to
that of the tank water that they are to be released into. And It is the
same sort of shock that gives us colds for not putting on our coat to go
out to get the mail or something like that.
    Your catfish can live quite well in cold water under the ice so
don't give up but next time have them put fewer to the bag so that you
can flote them for say one hour before letting them loose and you wont
get ick again
                        Bruce

| Message 12 

Subject: Re: BASIL
From:    "TGTX" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 09:24:51 -0500

> Dear Claude
> Thank you- I think my plants have all of the bacteria mentioned. Bugs I
can
> see: if I can see it, I can kill it. Bacteria are very scary. If I have
> them: how do I get rid of them.

No, No! Bacteria are not scary.  Bacteria are everywhere.  Ubiquitous!
Pseudomonas sp.  is everywhere on the planet.
You have a happy layer of bacteria on your skin and a Gwadzillion of them on
your hair throwing little microbe parties

.As you move around in the
air

your hair is like an air filter collecting Gwadzillions of bacteria
every day

.that is, if you have hair on the head

.nevermind

The key is to try to control the environmental conditions as best as
possible and not let the opportunistic little gremlins enter at the gate of
opportunity that one may have left wide open.

Ted

| Message 13 

Subject: Reply to - Re: Proposed Organic Standards for Aquatic Animals
From:    "David Atkinson" 
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 10:19:31 -0400

Hi,

You can forward a copy to me at:

atkindw 'at' cybervale.com

Thanks.

David A.
(from JAMAICA W.I.)

----- Original Message -----
From: S & S Aqua Farm 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: Proposed Organic Standards for Aquatic Animals

> At 07:24 PM 05/31/2001 -0500, Adriana wrote:
> >The National Organic Standards Board will convene a meeting in La
> >Crosse WI on June 6-7 at which time the Institute for Social, Economic
> >and Ecological Sustainability Task Force will present their
> >recommendations There will also be an open public comment period
> >before and after the meeting. The proposed standards are posted on the
> >ISEES website at http://www.fw.umn.edu/ISEES/
> >
> >Thanks go to Deborah J. Brister for keeping us informed.  If you have
> >any comments I would direct them to her.
> >
> >Deborah J. Brister
> >Organic Aquaculture Project Manager
> >Institute for Social, Economic and Ecological Sustainability
> >University of Minnesota
> >186 McNeal Hall
> >1985 Buford Avenue
> >St. Paul, MN 55108-6142
> >djb 'at' fw.umn.edu
>
> Thanks, Adriana, for posting this -- I had a more complete copy I'd
intended
> to send to the list, but I'm obviously days (weeks?) behind in my
> "intended's".  Deborah did forward a 97KB attachment that I'd be glad to
> forward to anyone who needs it.  Title is:
>
> AQUATIC TASK FORCE RECOMMENDATIONS 5.25.01
>
> The Federal Register notice on this has some additional information as
well.
> If you'd like a full copy of Deborah's message on the FR notice (with
> recommendations attachment), contact me directly at snsaquasys 'at' townsqr.com
> and I'll forward a copy.
>
> Thanks
> Paula
> S&S Aqua Farm, 8386 County Road 8820, West Plains, MO 65775  417-256-5124
> Web page  http://www.townsqr.com/snsaqua/

| Message 14 

Subject: Re: Temperature ranges
From:    fishmanbruce 'at' webtv.net (Bruce Schreiber)
Date:    Sun, 3 Jun 2001 10:15:38 -0500 (CDT)

Mike  If your humidity is low a swamp cooler has worked for me to lower
water temps when I needed to doctor up a 7ft.gator. It worked to lower
the gaters body temp. making him safe to handle and as a bonuses I got
to keep my body parts intact. I didn't get a scratch but I sure would
have.I suspect that the owner was really trying to feed the dam things
                        Bruce

| Message 15 

Subject: RE:  Temperature ranges
From:    Jim Joyner 
Date:    Sun, 03 Jun 2001 11:38:51 -0500


Charlie,

Thanks for the information. You obviously raised issues I hadn't even thought of. I hadn't considered the variability of the plants -- all my experience in in the dirt. What you say, though, seems to me to make temperature that much more critical.

Also, on St Croix your kinda stuck with high temps. In the winter I can get all the cooling I need. But can the fish take it.

I think my original question is still important (Does anyone know the ideal temperature ranges for different fish?). Are there fish that can take cooler temperatures? Koi? Or do they all need similar temps? And keep in mind I'm not much interested in the fish except as bio-converters -- I don't care if they grow, just so they .

Again, thanks for the information, I'll file that away for future reference.

Jim

At 05:06 PM 6/2/01 +0000, you wrote:
Jim,

I agree with your temperature ranges for tilapia (28-31C optimal), but not your temperature for fruit set on strawberries.  We are currently "playing" with some strawberries in our floating raft system at UVI.  Water temps are currently about 81F and we are actually getting our strawberry plants to set fruit.  I agree that a cooler climate may be suited for most varieties of strawberries, but obviously there are cultivars that will set fruit above low 60Fs.

What concerns us the most about temperature is the occurance of fungal pathogens like Phytium.  The fungus is notorious in hydroponic systems, especially when temps increase above 75F.  What we have noticed is an outbreak of one species of Phytium (P. dissotocum) when temps rise above 75F.  Next as temps increase to above 85F, we get nailed with P. myriotylum(sp?).  This species of Pythium will completely turn roots to mush and can destroy a crop within days.

Therefore, temperature ranges are an area we are currently researching.  In most aquaponic systems, the plant component produces the majority of the profits, roughly 75% may be from plant sales.  The fish sales are minimal compared to the plant revenue.  (Although Steve S. may turn these numbers around with his ornamental fish)  Let me continue talking tilapia aquaponics for now.  To discourage the outbreak of Pythium here in the tropics we are looking at two options:

1)  Identify plant species resistant to these root fungus species at high temps.  Most of the lettuce varieties we've tested all are susceptable to a degree to Pythium.  So, during the past two summers we began looking at a completely different crop.  Although not replicated or analytically tested, we saw great results with crops such as Okra, Cucumbers, Chives, Melons (yes, lotsa Cruzian cantaloupes), and even flowers.  I realize some farmers need to keep a consistant product year round for their customers, but if it is possible to switch to a more productive product in the summer then the profits will follow.

2)  If the producer wishes to continue production of say lettuce in the hot summers months, we are looking into temperature regulation of our systems. 
We have six replicated floating raft systems which are slated to conduct temperature experiments this summer.  We are attempting to chill the water below 76F in an attempt to reduce damage from root fungus.  Obviously now, this takes us out of our optimum growing range for tilapia.  Remember they prefer 82-88F.  We realize this will slow the growth of our fish component. 
Also remember though, the plants are making most of our profits.  In our case then, we are choosing to provide optimum growing temps for our plants rather than our fish.

Either way, your thoughs about temperature compatablity between your plants and fish are valid.

Not only should you consider temp ranges for your plants and fish.  You also have to keep in mind that your nitrifiers (good bacteria) also need to be within a certain range to provide consistant and effective conversion of ammonia and nitirites.  Unfortunately, I don't have any of my text books available here, so maybe Tejas Ted can chime in with optimum temp for nitrification.  Ted, maybe you can also enlighten us on the optimum temps for mineralization???  Sorry to put you on the spot, but you are the man (just let us know when the book is available).

Finally Jim, you are also going to have to compromise optimum ranges for pH levels as well.  Most hydroponic plants enjoy a pH in the 5.5-6.5 range while tilapia prefer pH of closer to 8.  Nitrifiers also come into play, so we compromise for all life and keep a pH close to 7 in our aquaponic systems.

Hope some of this helps,
Charlie
St. Croix, USVI

PS - any other comments? ideas?

<<<Original message>>>>

Here's my concern: If, for example, you grow Tilapia which have a ideal
temp range in 80s(F), if you try to grow strawberries, the plants are
likely to thrive but there'll be no fruit because the blossoms require, I
think, low 60s to set. I realize I'm talking air temp and water temp but
I'm assuming that if water is moving constantly between tank and beds all
the time those temps are going to be pretty close.

So that would mean, I think, that the plants you grow have to matched
somewhat to the temps the particular fish like.

Comments? Ideas?

Thanks,

Jim


__________________
http://www.hotmail.com.
| Message 16 Subject: Affordable feed sources From: Darren Pearce Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 12:43:20 -0400 Adrianna et al I live on the olympic peninsula in western Washington. My problem is that I've been buying fish food through pet stores, where even online and in bulk the best deal I can find works out to almost 5 dollars per pound.OUCH! Surely I have missed something. I would like to find a local/regional source of commercial fish feed, but due to the small size of my system, an appropriate method of storage is also needed.Ideas?? peas Darren | Message 17 Subject: Cantaloupe methodology From: Darren Pearce Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 12:56:44 -0400 To anyone interested; My trial melon method is to place the plant on the south side of the grow-bed and to trellis the vine down along the south facing side of the table. I'd love to hear other's experience and/or compare notes with anyone currently involved with this. Darren | Message 18 Subject: Re: Temperature ranges From: "TGTX" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 11:57:30 -0500 >I think my original question is still important (Does anyone know the ideal temperature >ranges for different fish?). Are there fish that can take cooler temperatures? Koi? Or >do they all need similar temps? And keep in mind I'm not much interested in the fish >except as bio-converters -- I don't care if they grow, just so they . Well, Koi can handle pretty low temps, since they are carp, and some relatively lower O2 levels, but what they can handle and what is best are 2 different things altogether. Koi and Tilapia can be polycultured very sucessfully. >From a post in 1998: From: "Ted Ground" To: Subject: Water quality for various critters Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 08:10:33 -0500 These water quality guidelines apply to some commonly cultured aquaculture species, listed below. These are generalizations that represent ranges acceptable for health and growth, and do not represent lethal limits. Tolerance levels vary greatly depending on a variety of factors. Depending on who you talk to or read reports from, you will get different numbers. Kinda like the weather or politics, I guess. TROUT: Temp 45 - 68F (7 - 20C); D.O. 5 -12 mg/L (ppm); pH 5.5 - 8; Alkalinity 50 - 250 ppm; CO2 0 - 20ppm; Un-Ionized Ammonia 0 - 0.02ppm; Nitrite 0 - 0.2ppm; Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity 0 - 3 ppt (parts per thousand) HYBRID STRIPED BASS: Temp 70 - 85F (21 - 29C); DO 4 - 10 ppm; pH 6 - 8; Alkalinity 50 - 250ppm CO2 0 - 25ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.03 ppm; Nitrite 0 - 0.8ppm; Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity 0 - 3ppt (I know from personal experience that hybrid striped bass can be raised at much higher salinities- 15 to 17 ppt) TILAPIA: Temp 75 - 90F (24 - 32 C); DO 3 - 10 ppm; pH 6 - 8; Alkalinity 50 - 250ppm; CO2 0 -30ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.04 ppm; Nitrite 0 - 0.8ppm; Hardness 50 - 350 ppm; Chloride 0 - 5000ppm; Salinity 0 - 15 ppt FRESHWATER SHRIMP (PRAWNS): Temp 68 - 80F (20 - 27C); DO 4 - 10ppm; pH 6.5 - 9; Alkalinity 60 -100ppm; CO2 0 - 20ppm; Unionized Ammonia 0 - 0.05ppm; Nitrite 0 - 0.9ppm; Hardness 60 - 250ppm; Chloride 0 - 1500ppm; Salinity 0 - 3ppt Fish will excrete about 14 grams of ammonia for each pound of food eaten (assuming a 35% protein diet). Test kits read total ammonia. The numbers for ammonia given above are for unionized ammonia. You have to run the numbers through a formula or chart to convert to unionized ammonia, which reflects the equilibrium and dissociation of unionized ammonia with ionized" ammonium, which is affected by pH and temperature. Generally, the higher the pH and temperature, the higher the percentage of unionized ammonia to total ammonia. Again, these are just rules of thumb. Aquarium hobbyists and aquaculturists will likely divide on these numbers- the set levels or tolerances. Several factors right at the edge of the tolerance limits can combine to add stress to the point of crop failure." | Message 19 Subject: THERAPY From: "Ray & Margi Gibbison" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 19:23:52 +0200 ----- Original Message ----- From: "TGTX" To: Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 4:24 PM Subject: Re: BASIL > > happy layer of bacteria on your skin and a Gwadzillion of them on your hair throwing little microbe parties. As you move around in the > air your hair is like an air filter collecting Gwadzillions of bacteria .This is very romantic Ted: keep the day job- Clairol won't be calling soon. every day .that is, if you have hair on the head .nevermind .Stop being nosy: I presumed the hair grew back after the Aquaponic apprenticeship. > > opportunity that one may have left wide open . well the horse definitely bolted in the wrong direction in this time. I will tighten up the security for the invisible enemy but I draw the line at shaving my head. Thank you for the workable ideas the last couple of days: will rethink a few things- the time difference means receiving questions and answers at the same time: I hope this is not an inconvenience for the members. Best Regards Margi | Message 20 Subject: Re: THERAPY From: "TGTX" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 12:34:43 -0500 > being nosy: I presumed the hair grew back after the Aquaponic > apprenticeship. Ha!!!! Right!! I guess it is time to let you know that you must remove all facial hair and proceed immediately to the airport and report for duty with a saffron robe to solicit funds for the cause there may be some sleep deprivation and extremely low calorie daily rations involved until you "get your mind right" Ha!! > bolted in the wrong direction in this time. I will tighten up the security > for the invisible enemy but I draw the line at shaving my head. Gonna draw a line in the sand won't let it go any farther wouldn't be prudent > Thank you for the workable ideas the last couple of days: will rethink a few > things- the time difference means receiving questions and answers at the > same time: I hope this is not an inconvenience for the members. > Best Regards > Margi No problem-o. We are all timeless and ageless and tireless, right folks? I gotta go take a siesta now Adios. Tedzo In a Lone Star State of Mind | Message 21 Subject: Re: BASIL From: "Ray & Margi Gibbison" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 20:41:40 +0200 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Schreiber" To: Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:56 PM Subject: Re: BASIL >Anti fungal and ask a lot of questions thanks, will do. I am surprised at how little people know about organic growing methods here in South Africa. It is quite a buzz-word for marketing products but the reality is I can only find one or two farms who do it seriously : no one hydroponically. I have thought of a quick USA trip for a supply of Neem, fingerlings, bugs, fishfood,polytanks, rockdust, seed for greenhouses etc but could get a few strange looks at customs. With our exchange rate I would have to catch that worm and flog it to the Smithsonian. I am curious enough to mail National Geographic to look up their back issues re worm. I grew up in the Zambezi Valley and thought I'd heard most things but this is new to me. You are talking 1965 onwards and the valley /river border was a no-go area during the civil war - brave journalist. You will be featuring in our campfire sessions come December. Nice chatting to you Margi | Message 22 Subject: Re: BASIL From: "TGTX" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 13:47:49 -0500 > >Anti fungal and ask a lot of questions thanks, will do. I am surprised > at how little people know about organic growing methods here in South > Africa. It is quite a buzz-word for marketing products but the reality is I > can only find one or two farms who do it seriously : If one must do it seriously in order to do it, then I don't think I want to do it. > I am curious enough to mail National Geographic to look up their back issues > re worm. I grew up in the Zambezi Valley and thought I'd heard most things > but this is new to me. You are talking 1965 onwards and the valley /river > border was a no-go area during the civil war - brave journalist. You will be > featuring in our campfire sessions come December. > Nice chatting to you > Margi I haven't a clue what you just said, but it was great. Ted | Message 23 Subject: Re: Affordable feed sources From: "gutierrez-lagatta" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 14:13:26 -0500 Look in the yellow pages under "seed" or "feed", they usually sell fish food. Other than that you might send an e-mail to Purina to see who their sales rep is for your part of the state. If there are horse people nearby the seed and ffed stores may be orderig stuff in from them and can add your fish food in as a special order item. > Adrianna et al > I live on the olympic peninsula in western Washington. My problem is that I've > been buying fish food through pet stores, where even online and in bulk the > best deal I can find works out to almost 5 dollars per pound.OUCH! Surely I > have missed something. I would like to find a local/regional source of > commercial fish feed, but due to the small size of my system, an appropriate > method of storage is also needed.Ideas?? | Message 24 Subject: Re: BASIL From: "Ray & Margi Gibbison" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:25:53 +0200 ----- Original Message ----- From: "gutierrez-lagatta" To: Sent: Sunday, June 03, 2001 11:53 AM Subject: Re: BASIL > Are you disinfecting those cuticle scissors between cuts? No but will do in future. Bend my head in shame while the ramifications settle in -for the first time I am thankful that digging in the gravel has left no nails left to manicure. Hello my name is Margi and I am an does it have to begin with a vowel, my husband asks? We collaborated in welding the frame for the greenhouse- he had developed a permanent stutter with the 6th letter in the alphabet by mid-afternoon because I was never quite holding things in line. Have a whole heap of ideas to work with: thanks for the help. Take care Margi > > > | Message 25 Subject: Re: BASIL From: "Ray & Margi Gibbison" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 21:41:07 +0200 > If one must do it seriously in order to do it, then I don't think I want to > do it I should have said "take it seriously"? As in -we can cheat with pesticides if we have to get a crop in. All over the world people are telling me to lighten up: good thing I have developed a wonderful sense of humour- it shown the best growth in the aquaponic system. > > I haven't a clue what you just said, but it was great . now pay attention .Bruce mailed a great story about a six foot worm.Take care Margi | Message 26 Subject: RE: Temperature ranges From: "Ron Brooks" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 17:00:00 -0400 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0EC4E.A05C9480 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Jim Here is some info for you Freshwater Shrimp Best growth 83-85 degrees Fahrenheit Tolerant of 57-90 Degrees Fahrenheit Sturgeon Best growth 60-70 Degrees Fahrenheit All but Gulf Sturgeon tolerant of cold temps. Tilapia best growth 75-85 Degrees Fahrenheit Lethal 55 Degrees Fahrenheit Catfish Best growth 75-85 Degrees Fahrenheit Tolerant of cold temp.s Bluegill ( Sunfish ) and Hybrid Best growth 55-80 Degrees Fahrenheit Cold tolerant Largemouth Bass Best growth 55-80 Degrees Fahrenheit Cold Tolerant Hybrid Striped Bass Best Growth 75-85 Degrees Fahrenheit Difficulty below 55 Degrees Fahrenheit Rainbow Trout Best Growth 50-65 Degrees Fahrenheit Lethal above 70 Degrees Fahrenheit Yellow Perch Best Growth 55-78 Degrees Fahrenheit Cold tolerant, needs cold period to spawn Walleye Best growth 68-78 Degrees Fahrenheit Requires cold period for spawning Muskellunge Similar to walleye Fathead Minnows Best Growth 68-75 Degrees Fahrenheit Golden Shiner Best growth 50-80 Degrees Fahrenheit cold tolerant Goldfish Best growth 65-80 Degrees Fahrenheit White Sucker Best growth 65-75 Degrees Fahrenheit Angelfish Best growth 75-85 Degrees Fahrenheit Lethal under 60 Degrees Fahrenheit Koi Best growth 65-80 Degrees Fahrenheit While most of these are for food production There are a few that are ornamentals or for bait fish Hope this helps Ron The One Who Walks Two Paths I think my original question is still important (Does anyone know the ideal temperature ranges for different fish?). Are there fish that can take cooler temperatures? Koi? Or do they all need similar temps? And keep in mind I'm not much interested in the fish except as bio-converters -- I don't care if they grow, just so they . Again, thanks for the information, I'll file that away for future reference. Jim ------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0EC4E.A05C9480 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jim
Here=20 is some info for you
 
Freshwater Shrimp
    Best growth 83-85 degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Tolerant of 57-90 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Sturgeon
    Best growth 60-70 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    All but Gulf Sturgeon = tolerant of=20 cold temps.
Tilapia
    best growth 75-85 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Lethal 55 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Catfish
    Best growth 75-85 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Tolerant of cold=20 temp.s
Bluegill ( Sunfish ) and = Hybrid
    Best growth 55-80 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Cold = tolerant
Largemouth Bass
    Best growth 55-80 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Cold = Tolerant
Hybrid=20 Striped Bass
    Best Growth 75-85 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Difficulty below 55 = Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Rainbow Trout
    Best Growth 50-65 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Lethal above 70 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Yellow=20 Perch
    Best Growth 55-78 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Cold tolerant, needs cold = period to=20 spawn
Walleye
    Best growth 68-78 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Requires cold period for=20 spawning
Muskellunge
    Similar to=20 walleye
Fathead Minnows
    Best Growth 68-75 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Golden=20 Shiner
    Best growth 50-80 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    cold = tolerant
Goldfish
    Best growth 65-80 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
White=20 Sucker
    Best growth 65-75 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Angelfish
    Best growth 75-85 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
    Lethal under 60 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
Koi
    Best growth 65-80 Degrees=20 Fahrenheit
 
While=20 most of these are for food production There are a few that are = ornamentals or=20 for bait fish
Hope=20 this helps

Ron
The One Who Walks Two=20 Paths

I think my = original=20 question is still important (Does anyone know the ideal temperature = ranges=20 for different fish?). Are there fish that can take cooler = temperatures?=20 Koi? Or do they all need similar temps? And keep in mind I'm not much=20 interested in the fish except as bio-converters -- I don't care if = they grow,=20 just so they .

Again, thanks for the information, I'll file = that away=20 for future reference.

Jim
------=_NextPart_000_0064_01C0EC4E.A05C9480-- | Message 27 Subject: Re: Aeration From: "KenHale" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 17:19:59 -0500 This is why the paddle agitator is still the best deal going!!!!! Subject: Aeration Just to back up my earlier claims. I found I had asked some questions on aeration back in 99 . here's part of that post. Researchers at Auburn University evaluated the performance of many aerators and studied the effect of design features and operating conditions on performance. Results in terms of pounds of oxygen transferred per kilowatt of electrical power used are summarized below: SAE lb O2/hp-hr ----------------- Aerator type Average Range -------------- -------- ----------- Paddle wheel, all types 3.1 1.6 - 4.3 Propeller-aspirator pump 2.3 1.9 - 2.6 Vertical pump 2.0 1.0 - 2.6 Pump sprayer 1.9 1.3 - 2.8 Diffusion 1.3 1.0 - 2.3 | Message 28 Subject: Fwd. fish sp for acuaponics HELP From: S & S Aqua Farm Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 17:42:28 -0500 Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 18:20:36 -0300 From: pablo obiaga Subject: fish sp for acuaponics HELP Hello everybody: I've been having a difficult quest gathering info on fish to acuaponic. As some may remember, Tilapia is forebidden in Uruguay. The main problem is that most of commercial sp are refered as being predators (including Fishbase.org), thou I know they are acuacultured. Does any body now if this meens they include fish flour in the feed or other animal source? Can this be harmfull in some way in an S&S or acuaponic systems in general? These more marketable sp, but refered to as predators are: Odonthestes spp. Pejerrey (Spanish) Hoplias Malabaricus Tararira (Spanish) Traira or Trairao(Portuguese) (ref: Trairao, Hoplias lacerdae) Trahira (English) Rhamdia Sapo Bagre (Spanish) I would need help getting to now these spp feed, water requirements, rates, etc. The density parameters (below) are expressed in square meters (surface= unit). In acuaponics we talk about volumes (cubic feet or cubic meters). How can I meaningfully use this info? I presume it is based on natural surface oxigen transfer capacity of a given water mirror on a given ecosystem, because most of this technology as been develloped for open systems, allready existing or built lakes, with or without added external food, but all of them, with no assisted oxygen supply. Many of the references work even with fish/H=E0, and come from technology produced to revert overcaptures' effects on natural ecosystems. So far I have found more info on those witch are clearely stated as omnivours but are less marketable. I wildly translated the info from portuguese. Source: http://www.moana.com.br/moa3_1.htm Moana Aquacultura and added info, trying to expand the list's helping possibilities. =20 Common Names: Pacu, Caranha (Brasil), Pacu (Uruguay), (Argentina?) Cientific Name: Piaractus mesopot=E1micus=20 Origin : River Plate "system" or bacin (the source does not say but its also uruguayan vernacular)."Bac=EDa do Prata, Brasil" (they refer it as) The R.Plate Bacin includes Southern Brasil, PAraguay, Argentina, Uruguay, and may be some low lands in Bolivia. Character=EDstics: Description:=20 Omnivour =20 Feed on culture: Balanced "extrusada"(pelletized?) feed Feed per fish / day 2 - 6% of LW =20 Convertion rate 1,5 - 2 p: 1 =20 Temperature (best) 20 - 30=B0C =20 Water Ph (best) 6 - 8 =20 M=EDn. DO 1,5 mg/L. =20 Water Clarity 25 a 45 cm. =20 Culture system: monocultivar or policultivar=20 Culture Density 0,5 a 2 fish por m2 =20 Harvest age 8 - 14 months =20 Market Weight 1 a 2 kg =20 Max. Weight 18 kg =20 Principal Market Sport fishery Common Names: Piau=E7=FA, or Piau, or Piau verdadeiro (true) (Brasil). Boga (Uruguay), (Argentina?) Nome cient=EDfico: Leporinos SP. Origin : River Plate "system" or bacin (the source does not say but its also uruguayan vernacular) "Bac=EDa do Prata, Brasil" (they refer it as) Character=EDstics: Description:=20 Omnivour =20 Feed on culture: Balanced "extrusada"(pelletized?) feed Feed per fish / day 2 - 5% of LW =20 Convertion rate 1,5 - 2 p: 1 =20 Temperature (best) 18 - 30=B0C =20 Water Ph (best) 6 - 8 =20 M=EDn. DO 2 mg/L. =20 Water Clarity 25 a 45 cm. =20 Culture system: monocultivar or policultivar=20 Culture Density 1 a 2 fish por m2 =20 Harvest age 8 - 14 months =20 Market Weight 0,8 - 1,5 kg =20 Max. Weight 8 kg =20 Principal Market Sport fishery Thanks a lot, Pablo | Message 29 Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions From: "Arlos" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 16:52:41 -0700 Steve, If you are getting the correct DO per kW for the system design and the system works, it should be fine. I think the discussion here might be appropriate applied technology. I raise abalone and am new to this board. I use multiple eductors and the gas transfer takes places in a 24" by 72" column with about 7-10 min of contact and the result is a measured 100% DO at the 250 gallon abalone tank. Paddles, spray bars, flat plate diffusion and air stones all have there application. Bubbling efficiency is limited when used directly in a tank as much of the energy is lost. My plans are to get data on reuse of waste water for an aquaponics project in an area of <200 sq ft. In that application I plan to use an eductor to aerate the fish tank but I will be raising Red Claw. I n a large operation a paddle is hands down the correct choice. I n under 1000 gallons like yours an air stone diffuser should provide at least some of the DO requirements. Take readings at the influent pipe, surface, midwater and effluent weir (if you are using a weir). I mentioned in an earlier response this week the use of an eductor manifold which uses the recirculation pump on the discharge side to install the eductor. As earlier mentioned, flowing water measured at 6-8 gpm in a small recirculation system you should be able to flow 5-15+ SCFM to gain greater MET or mass energy transfer for gas transfer. I hope this is of some use. Arlos -----Original Message----- From: STEVE SPRING To: aquaponics 'at' townsqr.com Date: Saturday, June 02, 2001 10:07 PM Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions >Hi Arlos, > >I am running an O2 concentrator which is attached to 2 airstones. The O2 >concentrator puts out apprx. 90-95% FIO2 'at' 6/lpm. I'm very happy with this >configuration, but with your experience, is there a better end application >than airstones? > >I am currently running a 700 gal recirc. system with apprx. 100 Tilapia. > >Thanks .Steve > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Arlos" >To: >Sent: Saturday, June 02, 2001 11:18 AM >Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions > > >Bruce, > > Not to split hairs or create an endless string on the subject but >diffusion of gas through plate diffusers and especially regenerative blowers >work just fine. I work at the Monterey Bay Aquarium / Stanford >Universities' Tuna Research and Conservation Center )TRCC) where we have 4 >large aeration towers supported by recirculation systems and regenerative >blowers that when measured at the influent of each holding tank have >readings of 100-107% of DO. This provides a 100% distribution of DO through >out the water column in high stocking densities of both blue and yellow fin >tuna which have extremely high metabolic rates. Though surface transfer of >gas is not to be argued. You can't beat spray bars either in the right >application.Sub surface systems for aquaculture and waste treatment have >more than enough data to support their continued use. It boils down to the >cost of gas transference being the core of the issue. O&M costs drive the >design process. > Bringing science and engineering to the subject of aquaponics will help >everyone make a more qualified choice as to the appropriately applied level >of technology. > >Arlos > >-----Original Message----- >From: Bruce Schreiber >To: aquaponics 'at' townsqr.com >Date: Saturday, June 02, 2001 7:53 AM >Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions > > >Mark The air bubbles from an aireator contribute very little to the >oxygen content of the water directly.Instead they help to cause an up >swelling of water from lower in the tank to the water surface were the >REAL OXYGEN EXCHANGE takes place. Any way that you can circulate water >up to the surface works as good as air driven > Bruce > > > > > | Message 30 Subject: Re: Affordable feed sources From: Bertmcl 'at' aol.com Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 20:03:00 EDT Try calling !-800-227-8941. Aqua Max Fish Diet feeds. Their brochure ha s and address of Purina Mill,Inc. 1401 South Hanley Road St. Louis, MO 63144 A 50 lb bag at our local Feed & Seed store, costs us just under 36 cents per lb. I usually buy 1 or 2 bags at a time and the dealer usually needs about 2 weeks notice to re-order. Hope this help. Bert | Message 31 Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions From: "Arlos" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 17:19:32 -0700 Bruce, I'll take some photos of our aeration towers and blowers and post them this next week. You brought up a very good point about building equipment in that the Monterey Bay aquarium had made a decision to purchase a blower with blades fabricated from PVC that had been hot air welded. Two elemental traits of plastic are They have very good compression strength but very poor tensile strength. Going into the facility to do my water quality checks with the tuna, the blower had self destruct and tore the blower housing to pieces and one of the blades ripped large gouges into the side of the building and shattered the entrance door. I argued to replace with a composite built system from Harrington Plastics but the bean counters prevailed again and it was replaced with the same unit. An aeration tower has influent free fall into a column where the blower injects air at the bottom side of the column and at the bottom of the column is an outlet to recirc back to the tanks For now, there is a great company in Florida (since I'm new to this group, this company most likely is well known in here) "Aquatic eco-systems, inc" are one of the best single source for aquaculture I know of. Check their web site at www.aquaticeco.com or call them at 407 886-3939. They will send a catalog on request. Arlos -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Schreiber To: aquaponics 'at' townsqr.com Date: Saturday, June 02, 2001 1:53 PM Subject: Re: SEC: UNCLASSIFIED:-Re: Pond Aerator Solutions Arlos I understand the spray bar and I do use them for surface agitation being simple to make. But could you please explain for us the how the Aeration tower,Plate diffuser and regeneration blowers work? I think that the plate diffuser might be what is commonly used on top of reef systems filtration in salt water set ups sort of a flat plate with a lot of holes drilled in it but i am probably wrong . What about the aeration tower is it something that I could make? does It splash water down over a high pipe filled with netting or some other medium to aerate the water? I am guessing but I bet that a regenerative blower is to hard to build with expedient materials Bruce | Message 32 Subject: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions From: dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com Date: Sun, 03 Jun 2001 20:35:17 -0700 For those who need to see a smaller version look here http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?orderidentifier=ID991617508518013F6F&eflag=0&iteminfo4=0&itmid=4877&passitemid=4877&srcid=ED1&srcdoc=/search.icl%3Fsearchstring%3Deductor%26searchArea%3D1%26exactSearch%3D0%26orderidentifier%3DID991617508518013F6F%26itemName%3D1%26reSort%3D1%26firstRow%3D1&sourcedoc=&srcquantity=1 or look here at a aspirator also another idea of mixing oxygen and water, by injecting air into the water stream this item simply mixes the 2 streams air and water. http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?orderidentifier=ID991617508518013F6F&eflag=0&iteminfo4=0&itmid=305&passitemid=305&srcid=AP1&srcdoc=/search.icl%3Fsearchstring%3Daspirator%26searchArea%3D1%26exactSearch%3D0%26orderidentifier%3DID991617508518013F6F%26itemName%3D1%26itemSku%3D1%26keyWord%3D1%26reSort%3D1%26firstRow%3D1&sourcedoc=&srcquantity=1 hmmm good stuff Mike JAMAICA. billevans wrote: > > http://www.kinetic-therm.com/english/product/eductor/page01.htm > > high pressure liquid moving past a venturi creates vacuum | Message 33 Subject: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions From: "Arlos" Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 18:36:15 -0700 Mike, I tend to use Mazzi eductors built into a manifold. The illustration from the website you posted works great on a bar set up.Though in the past year I've started to mill my own from PVC round bar stock. In the aeration string here they offer additional source of getting DO into the stream without the additional use of more pumps or as back up if surface aeration equipment fails. Arlos -----Original Message----- From: dreadlox 'at' cwjamaica.com To: aquaponics 'at' townsqr.com Date: Sunday, June 03, 2001 6:26 PM Subject: Re: Pond Aerator Solutions >For those who need to see a smaller version look here > >http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?orderidentifier=ID991617508 518013F6F&eflag=0&iteminfo4=0&itmid=4877&passitemid=4877&srcid=ED1&srcdoc=/s earch.icl%3Fsearchstring%3Deductor%26searchArea%3D1%26exactSearch%3D0%26orde ridentifier%3DID991617508518013F6F%26itemName%3D1%26reSort%3D1%26firstRow%3D 1&sourcedoc=&srcquantity=1 > >or look here at a aspirator also another idea of mixing oxygen and >water, by injecting air into the water stream this item simply mixes >the 2 streams air and water.> >http://www.aquaticeco.com/aquatic1v1/itempg.icl?orderidentifier=ID991617508 518013F6F&eflag=0&iteminfo4=0&itmid=305&passitemid=305&srcid=AP1&srcdoc=/sea rch.icl%3Fsearchstring%3Daspirator%26searchArea%3D1%26exactSearch%3D0%26orde ridentifier%3DID991617508518013F6F%26itemName%3D1%26itemSku%3D1%26keyWord%3D 1%26reSort%3D1%26firstRow%3D1&sourcedoc=&srcquantity=1 > >hmmm good stuff > >Mike >JAMAICA. > > >billevans wrote: >> >> http://www.kinetic-therm.com/english/product/eductor/page01.htm >> >> high pressure liquid moving past a venturi creates vacuum > | Message 34 Subject: problems with basil From: "Eric Tan" Date: Mon, 04 Jun 2001 01:41:33 Hi guy; My basils were growing great for the first 45 days . They produced large leaf and had great flavor. But knoe they produce small crumpled leaves. Why is this so? The plants are planted in a pot packed together with a tomato plant in the middle. Some rust spots also devolp in some plants. Can I cure these or better discard all of it. Temp. here rises up to 37 deg. Celsius. Eric | Message 35 Subject: Re: BASIL From: cmollison 'at' eoec.co.za (Chris Mollison) Date: Sun, 3 Jun 2001 22:04:42 +0200 Margi Hi, Like you I've been a lurker on the board. As a complete newbie I've been spending my time reading archives, daily correspondence and looking at pictures and reading notes from sites describing their model. Hi every one! I live in Port Elizabeth (southern tip of Africa for the curious) and have recently discovered aquaponics. I will have completed the construction of x3 grow beds by next week and plan to have a pilot system (one tank connected to grow beds) in by the end of June. Tilapia fingerlings can be sourced from both Rhodes and Stellenbosch Universities. I have contact names and numbers if you need them. Regards Chris Mollison ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ray & Margi Gibbison" To: "AQUAPONICS WEBSITE" Sent: Friday, June 01, 2001 10:45 PM Subject: BASIL > Hi > Our annual (December) fishing trip to the Zambezi River combines visiting > with family (who live in Zimbabwe) and catching "bream" (mostly tilapia - Snip Snip

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